Recent content by tinman1973

Thanks for your replies, I was probably overthinking it, which to be fair is typical of me. With a big hammer, took awhie but got it in there. Lol.

Hi, I have just completed the installation of a defibrillator cabinet and it is wired as follows Existing 32A final ring circuit on tybeB RCBO. Addition . FCU spured off a socket outlet, about 300mm of singles. 3A fuse BS1361, about 10m of 1.5 3core swa to an external IP56 junction box...

Speed controller low medium and high speed. Permanently connected as high speed.

Is it DOL or star delta with a 6 pole isolator?

I assume the cable for the landing socket comes up to the socket from below, if it was from above then you could insert a junction box on the cable in the loft and connect a socket there.

That's fair enough as there isn't an alternative. But there is an alternative to t&e, which is probably cheaper and also easier

Yeah I've seen it with just the vertical drops done in conduit and everything else clipped. I understand the need for a then, but there was one I saw where it was fully enclosed in conduit and he used t&e.

I watch a of the videos on you tube and noticed a few garage/workshop installation in 20mm pvc conduit. Great idea and looks smart. But then they go and run t&e in it and end up doing extra runs and having to use connectors. Why are they doing this and not using 6491X. Just after your thoughts...

Or drop down vertical from sockets come out and the wall and surface clip behind the cabinets, then back in the wall up vertical to the next socket. I did this when I had a window in the way.

Is the wall with no sockets on but the cable is visible at 90 degrees to the others. If so that cable may be outside the zones depending on how deep it is.

Just one point nobody seems to have picked up on is sure the highlighted run is outside of prescribed zones!

may be have a look at these https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Manufacturers/Quinetic/index.html?ad_position=&source=adwords&ad_id=382044852431&placement=&kw=quinetic wireless...

A lot of sparks are actually moving away from rings, as they are ok when first installed. But when Mr DIY gets their hands on them and start putting in spurs from spurs and causing rings within rings it creates problems. Also, if you get a break in a cable the sockets still work but it's now 2...

Ditch the 2.5mm2 and go for a 4mm or 6mm depending on the method of installation and use a radial on a 32A for a kitchen.

As above, Use something like this. https://www.rexel.co.uk/uki/root-category/Cable-%26-Cable-Management/Metallic-Conduit/20mm-Steel-Conduit-Through-Extension-Box-Galvanised/p/2500912124?gclid=CjwKCAiAvOeQBhBkEiwAxutUVKsYaZ7VM1nrvStsGtwcwOonmmr202BZqavFXHSZC-0N_baC9G0b-hoCl9QQAvD_BwE