13A sockets for EVs

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I recently bought a welder and it came with a 'heavy duty' 13A plug, presumably in recognition that 'standard' ones are not up to the job.

Curiously though, it wasn't actually fitted to the welder - it was supplied with no plug actually fitted so couldn't be used straight out of the box.

Not a problem in my case because I had always intended to fit an industrial 16A plug anyway so would have cut off a 13A plug had one been fitted.

So it's not just an EV issue.

I wonder about the legality of this approach. Should I have had a pro electrician fit the plug for me?

It all seems a bit if a mess, but the fact remains that if something is fitted with a 13A plug then it's a reasonable assumption that consumers are going to plug it into a matching socket with no thought of the application. No consumer can be expected to understand technical specs.
 
The problem with that is a) the plugs are usually moulded on and b) they have a temperature sensor moulded into them.
Yes, Mine was moulded on, I just cut it off and replaced it with a heavy duty rubberized alternative. No sensor in my charger (MG) I suppose you'd have an issue with a unit that includes temp. sensing, but then the issue would be limiting current to a low level or turning off in the event of a high resistance connection rather than wrecking the plug and/or socket.
 
Yes, Mine was moulded on, I just cut it off and replaced it with a heavy duty rubberized alternative. No sensor in my charger (MG) I suppose you'd have an issue with a unit that includes temp. sensing, but then the issue would be limiting current to a low level or turning off in the event of a high resistance connection rather than wrecking the plug and/or socket.
I suppose there are exceptions to every rule LOL. Certainly the BMW i3 and the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV do have temp sensors.
 
Anyone got much experience of replacing 13A sockets that burn out when charging EV’s? I’ve replaced a couple but had a call earlier so it made me wonder about all these extra EV’s on the market is this problem only get worse?

i.e. are there any robust 13A sockets on the

That is completely different.

3rd party pads and brakes have to fit the vehicle they are designed for - with EV's there is no standard they are made too, and then there are different earthing systems to contend with
I totally understand, and the idea of sellers and manufacturers selling gear which is not fit for purpose is not acceptable . eBay sellers sell cheap unsafe products , but people buy with our any consideration .
 
So 2 product suggestions

1. Not available for 3 months

2. Is it compliant, as somebody suggests it’s not


Any other ideas

What total and utter nonsense
 
So 2 product suggestions

1. Not available for 3 months

2. Is it compliant, as somebody suggests it’s not


Any other ideas

What total and utter nonsense
I suppose many hundreds of thousands of people cannot hook up to an ev charger. If anyone has an ev charger change the resistors in the plugs to suite your requirements.i have set up a lead on my ev charger to accommodate poor solar light in winter giving me 2.7 KW if power from my 7.4kw ev charger. Safer than a granny plug.
 
I suppose many hundreds of thousands of people cannot hook up to an ev charger.
It's a non-starter for me, the joys of living in a Victorian terrace house where you can't gurantee a parking spot outside your own property. Some of the local supermarkets are starting to install rapid chargers, but then you can't guarantee a space whilst you shop, although the apps do indicate when a charge point is available.
 
I suppose many hundreds of thousands of people cannot hook up to an ev charger. If anyone has an ev charger change the resistors in the plugs to suite your requirements.i have set up a lead on my ev charger to accommodate poor solar light in winter giving me 2.7 KW if power from my 7.4kw ev charger. Safer than a granny plug.
Or use a Zappi and it adjusts the charging rate to consume excess energy.

I didn’t think it was resistors that changed the charge current, it’s the Pulse width on the pilot line?
 
Or use a Zappi and it adjusts the charging rate to consume excess energy.

I didn’t think it was resistors that changed the charge current, it’s the Pulse width on the pilot line?
I think the resistor in a given stand alone charge cable used with untethered charging points determines current for the cable based on it's rating, either 16A or 32A. Beyond that it is PWM that "tunes" the current rate in Comms. between the car and charging point.
 
I think the resistor in a given stand alone charge cable used with untethered charging points determines current for the cable based on it's rating, either 16A or 32A. Beyond that it is PWM that "tunes" the current rate in Comms. between the car and charging point.
You got the old grey matter working overtime. When I got my i3 3 years ago I designed my own charger which took quite a bit of research and head scratching. Ive dug out the information and it is the PWM of the pilot line that sets the charge current

PWM Charge Curent.PNG

You are quite right about the resistor in the cable, it can only select between 13A, 20A, 32A and 70A though, it goes between PP & PE pins.

Proximity Pilot.PNG
 
Or use a Zappi and it adjusts the charging rate to consume excess energy.

I didn’t think it was resistors that changed the charge current, it’s the Pulse width on the pilot line?
From the top of my head ,as I cannot find my sheet of values a 32Amp lead is 200ogms a 16 amp is 600ogms. I brought down a lead to work how I wanted it too. But now even better a zappy I don't have that smart feature that's why I altered my leads.
 
Get a proper charge point installed, simple.
Stop listening to twats trying to sell cars who say they can be charged with a normal socket outlet.
They can be charged with a granny charger, but some EV manufactures do not recommend doing this all the time. Apparently it's bad for the battery to do so?
 
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