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From my experience, with a wide range of makes / models of electric shower, as Binky suggests, if they are over 10years old then generally its not economically worthwhile attempting to repair them... As the time spent faffing around locating a part, replacing a part plus the cost of the part...

Also it was common practice years ago to find either; Wall mounted single bar 1kw integral cord-pull operated bathroom heater... OR A combined light and ceiling heater with a circular heating element and lamp in the middle with a cord pull that used to cycle through light only / light & heater...

Does the circuit have RCD protection?

There is no Switch-live wording on the wall plate, and probably not enough space for a 4-way block... The B&Q website spec states that it has no Override facility... thus to my understanding the switched live has no termination you can connect onto. I think its just poor design B&Q tat with...

If that terminal block is the original one that came with the fitting, and it is meant to slot into those two plastic lugs on the wall plate... then looking at the L, E, N written on the back plate, then it probably is wired correctly...? The visible cobwebs suggest this is not a new light...

Same here.. Also... I don't recall ever finding any additional identification sleeve used on a motorised valve when doing replacements / fault investigations on an existing installation. ?

Would it not come under Control circuits, or ELV, "And other applications"? Which include; Black / Brown / Red / Orange / Yellow / Green / Violet / Grey / White / Pink / Turquoise as options for 'Line conductors' transmitting AC electrical energy. (with Blue for Neutral). I have never...

?? eh :unsure: Nothing additional is required as Grey is a correct colour identification for a live conductor... (re: Table 51)

I would start by saying that you have noticed the installation is quite old and there is no label at the CU identifying when it was last inspected and tested to confirm its safety for continued use... (re: 514.12.1) Then ask them when it was last fully tested and do they still have copy of...

Sorry I can't really offer you a solution, but my thoughts are as follows.. (1) Welcome to the forum... 🍻 (2) Welcome to one of the modern day pain in the bum subjects for many electricians.. "Dimmers & LED lamps"... this has become very much a "Dark Art" in my opinion!. (3) As Binky said...

This is pretty much the reason for me posting this thread in the first place.. Working solo as a sole trader it is indeed interesting to see that other qualified, competent persons also can't seem to explain why one or more LED lights less than 50w max should need a more critical volt-drop...

So... lets just chuck a bit more fat into the pan from a real-world domestic installation perspective.. A customer I have, has an existing weatherproof out door socket on the rear of property... Wired in 2.5mm PVC T&E radial from a 20A type B MCB on the 30ma RCD side of an old split-load CU...

As a sole trader its great being able to manage jobs and plan your diary to suit your own personal work and family commitments with no external pressure from your boss.. [side note: Me- Self-employed since Feb 1999] But as a sole trader you also don’t have any work colleagues to debate...

As mentioned... you could swap two of your heaters over... BUT.. if they are not the same power rating then it may not be a good idea? i.e. I would guess that the lounge heater is probably a higher rating than the spare room, (Unless the rooms are equivalent sizes!).. ?? Never heard of...

erm... NO....? As IR tests between all live conductors are normally only required on cables/circuits during new installations, rewires or testing additional wiring to an existing installation.... Where nothing has so far been connected / plugged in! Whereas, IR testing on existing live...

In wiring regulations Brown, Black and Grey are ALL colours to identify live conductors, and Blue is a neutral conductor.. (Green/Yellow is earth). Where an insulated conductor is used for another function it should have sleeve or tape applied to identify the actual function. e.g. it would...

Golden Rule Number 1 ALWAYS assume something is live dangerous and can kill you until you have proved other wise... The yellow marker tape suggest it is electrical... The only electrical wiring in your property that is your responsibility are the meter tails that come into your consumer unit...

My thoughts would be:- (A) Incorrect item / Premature failure Any goods, or services, or work provided by any trades-person, company etc.. should be fit for purpose, and if they do fail prematurely then the supplier / provider of those goods / services should provide some type of warranty...

Any good quality competent electrician is very unlikely to use the services of checkatrade (and/or other similar listings websites).. As they can secure sufficient work via word of mouth, or other less-expensive means of advertising... All the contractors have to pay for their membership.. so...

I would suggest that 30-40 minutes is insufficient time to do an accurate EICR... Also having an apprentice would be more likely to increase the time taken as you would be teaching them about the inspection & testing you are doing, and what the acceptable readings actually are. If I get an...