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What is the original lamp doing? A lot of those are used as a "heat lamp" to keep something warm, if so swapping for an LED might not give the result you want.

Yes, moving the light circuits to the right hand RCD protected section would be the easiest option without having to source new parts.

Yes it boils my p*** when someone declares it must be replaced because it is plastic. As above, change lighting mcb for rcbo depending on make the part will likely be somewhere between £30 and £50 and 10 minutes to swap it. Assuming he has done all testing already and declared the wiring okay...

It sounds like the boiler "call for heat" input is way too sensitive and being triggered by a low stray voltage. I would start by connecting a snubber across the call for heat input

I am convinced the EIT have had a sanity transplant. How can "how far up the outer terminal" comes affect whether it is polarity sensitive or not. Fact, the outer terminal makes contact with the outer screw thread body on an ES lamp. Convention and common sense says that connects to neutral...

It is the case if you want to do things to be as safe as they technically can be. An electrician can in a few seconds determine which wire goes to which pin and connect them appropriatelty. Why would you not do that?

So personally I would check continuity and first confirm they are all connected the same way around. Or take advice from others and just connected it. I seem to be a lonely voice here suggesting you try and connect an SES lamp holder the correct way round. I like to do things technically...

Using a continuity tester or a multi meter. Once you have identified which is L and which is N mark them with some tape or sleeving.

You can hope it does, and trust that you can't touch the screw thread of the lamp holder, or very simply you can choose to connect it so L goes to the top cap of the lamp and N goes to the screw thread of the lamp. I know which i would do. Why take ANY risk?

I disagree. That is an SES Small Edison Screw lamp holder. The bottom / left contact in that lamp holder touches the bottom of the lamp That should connect to L. The top / right contact, makes contact with the metal screw thread of the lamp, that should connect to N. This is important...

What do the manufacturers instructions say? If it's second hand and has no instructions then all bets are off. Post a picture of the actual light fittings, and if it is a replacable lamp (one or more) post a picture looking into where the lamp fits (with the lamp removed)

Or use an extension lead as suggested before, you can get some neat small trunking for that sort of thing that could go around the top of the skirting board and done well you would hardly notice it.

Looks like suspended wooden floor. Down from existing socket, under floor, straight up to new socket. All in safe zones.

I would expect all of that to be within the scope of a competent electrician. Having done a safety check, known as an EICR, Electrical Installation Condition Report, you should get a standard set of paperwork outlining the findings and you should be able to discuss what needs doing. If you know...

The "brick" is the tv's power supply, you must use that. You need to fix it to the back of the tv or the wall somehow, cable ties are often good for this. The previous owner looks to have used an in line power connector, and "helpfully" walked off with the mating part. This was presumably to...

That's 300W of lighting. More than twice what I consume with every single light in the house on. Instead I would be replacing the downlights with dimmable GU10 LED's and an appropriate dimmer for them.

I have only seen pipe stats normally on hybrid systems with a stove with a back boiler, to make sure the circulating pump comes on when the stove is heating the water.

If it has just had a new boiler, why did they not get that installer back to fix their new install? Has this mystery pipe stat always been there or was it something new fitted when the new boiler was installed? Again another question to be asking of whoever fitted the new boiler. The fact...

NC would be used to control cooling, i.e. it is "on" until the temperature gets down to what you want.

Connect it exactly as in your right hand picture. If your wires are not red, blue and yellow, let us know what they are.