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Check the fan on the back of the motor is intact and not blocked, i.e. it is generating enough cooling air for the motor.

Is it a socket? Sockets don't normally have fuses so if the light is off it has tripped somewhere else. Is it a plug? Plugs have fuses but don't have a light. Is it an FCU, Fused connection Unit? These typically have a switch a fuse and a light and the boiler would be connected by a captive...

Yes it was an attempt at the time, to make all electric heating more affordable and more acceptable, and attempting to make it as cheap as gas. There are 3 separately metered circuits. Normal house circuits metered at normal rate in the day and cheap rate at night. Storage heater circuits...

That video may not help much as there are many designs of over heat trip and some are not at all obvious where you push to reset it, and at least one you need to take it out to even gat at the reset bit. Oh and some have thermal fuses.

So that IS a modern incarnation of the "Total Control Total Heating" (THTC) tariff which was I believe unique to SSE. do they still use storage heaters? and more importantly do they still use a lot of electric panel heaters? Having panel heaters and being able to run them any time of day on...

That is even more weird, why does the right one say "single rate meter" and then goes on to give a day and night rate? I would raise this as a complaint, on the basis how can you charge two daily standing charges for ONE meter?

So the question I would put to the supplier: There is only ONE meter. So why are you charging TWO lots of the daily standing charge. The solar PV meter is probably read remotely by that gadget attached to the top of that meter. Although not paif for the FIT the owner does get the free...

First picture looks like a normal 2 rate meter in the meter box with the supply. Can we have a zoomed out picture of the second meter to give some context of what it is connected to and what is around it please? It has an immersion diverter so suggests there is solar PV on the house, so...

Care to precis what this is about or link to somewhere that does?

Well spotted. I was too blinkered looking only at the switch pondering that I had never seen a bare jumper wire before.

If the old ones are not rusted away and are presentable, re use them.

The 2 blacks in a terminal to light fitting N. the green / yellow to light fitting E. the single black with yellow tape to light fitting L. The reds in the terminal are permanent L leave them as they are and don't connect anything else to them.

The red wire on the old switch that goes to the 2 middle terminals and is presently strapped with a bit of bare wire, goes to both "COMMON" terminals on the new switch, but don't re use that bit of bare wire, use a new bit of red or brown insulated wire. It is important you mark this particular...

So you have a very good deal £400 rent for a property that would be double that at market rate if properly repaired. Don't upset the apple cart. Use some of your £400 you are saving each month to pay an electrician to come and have a look at the non working storage heaters and see if they can...

I wonder if this is a reconfiguration of the old Total control system that did indeed have 2 meters, one being single rate, one being dual rate. As above a picture of the meter(s) would help.

That is a dual rate tariff. First block is the night time usage and the second block is the daytime usage. As they have 2 separate meter numbers and 2 lots of standing charge, it looks like it is a very old install that does have 2 separate meters. You would save some money by having those...

Which of those downstairs switches is supposed to / used to operate the landing light? The fact remains for 2 way switching to work properly, the downstairs landing light switch will have had a wire in both L1 and L2, these are the strappers that go to the same terminals in the upstairs switch...

As above. The downstairs switch that is supposed to operate the landing light should have 3 wires connected to it So if it was just the link wire missing I would expect the COM terminal of the landing light switch to be empty. Has ANYONE tried to fix this since the link wire fell out? have ANY...

But even worse than that, a simple change of design to the cage clamp blocks off the "wrong" side making it impossible to insert the busbar outside the cage clamp. But not many manufacturers do that. Why not? It is so cheap and simple once you see one. That is the sort of thing that should be...

Yes, but reporting the LL and forcing them to be squeaky clean would at least result in the OP paying market rent not the discounted rent, at worst would leave him looking for somewhere new. Some battles are not worth fighting?