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Are you sure the outside light is not fed from an FCU from the circuit that is now tripping? Basic rule if you have just done some work and something starts tripping, look VERY hard at what you have just done.

Get the storage heaters fixed. Worst case some new heating elements and a new thermostat. An hours labour per heater.

Yes if you know what you are doing and itermediate can be regarded as a universal light switch.

If you can't find before and after, try something comparing Scotland to England after part P came in.

Probably every kitchen and bathroom fitter doing electrics and a lot of small builders.

I thought you were planning to move an existing socket up the wall but in much the same place, which would mean jointing 2 cables in the wall. If you are doing more work so you can do the jointing under the floor then it is a lot easier to get what you want, with more chasing and more making...

@kerching is asking what type of box are you going to house the wago's in and where? Why not leave the existing socket where it is and run a spur from that to the one higher up?

Anyone care to precis what they say to save me an hour of my life?

I fitted my own complete MVHR system when building my new self build house a couple of years ago. I was able to borrow the anemometer kit to set up all the flow rates, but having done that for my own peace of mind, building control never asked for any paperwork.

So you spent many many £000's on buying a house including due dilligence and getting an eicr done, but have decided not so spend a few £00 getting the electrics upgraded, which you knew before you bought needed to be done? Perhaps now is that time?

And 1.5kW in a towel rail it would be glowing red. They are normally between 200w and 400w

One house I previously lived in had such a switch that was faulty. After reporting it twice and having an engineer come and look twice, I gave up reporting it and enjoyed cheap rate for something like 20 hours per day.

Get the Energy supplier to swap it for a single rate meter, which will probably be a smart meter, that will get rid of the timeswitch then you can tidy it all up and do the CU swap.

Thanks for letting us know. Your previous fan had an over tun timer so it would stay on for a few minutes after you turn the light off. And well done for photographing the old wiring before disconnecting. All too often we have people who have disconnected, usually a light fitting, and then...

Convention is grey= neutral, brown= permanent live and black = switched L, but there are variations so you would normally check to confirm that. In that case brown and E you safely terminate as they are not used. Black to the fan blue, and grey to the fan black What's the red and black...

I can't imagine what "appliances" you are thinking of that cannot be unplugged or switched off at an FCU?

And to trip an MCB it is just as likely to be a L-E short, which is much more likely with a nail through a cable.

For a L-N short it in not an insulation tester you need but a low ohms tester, same as you use for instance for measuring continuity on a ring final or doing R1+R2 tests. To get >32A flowing to trip a 32A mcb requires the "load" (in this case the short circuit) to be less than 7.5 ohms so that...

What is the full story? I assume this is a repossession or auction purchase and a renovation project? When was the electricity disconnected and why? Whether that cable is any use to you depends on the DNO and whether they think it has enough capacity. It may not be as simple as just re...

That is high up the BS scale, water in the light fitting won't affect the compressor. your fitting seems a lot more suitable than an E27 light bulb. You don't need to compensate anyone, just move on. it might well be the compress was the issue all along but that will require an F gas engineer...