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I will just add that all the "experts" lose 99.9% of their credability as far as I am concerned when they try and tell us that burning wood on an industrial scale at DRAX is "carbon neutral" when any ***** can see the same CO2 goes up the chimney as if it was burning coal, but only now there are...

Well I built my new well insulated house all electric with a heat pump. Better than burning the roughly 2000 litres of Kerosene that we did in the last house. Our runabout car, that we use for shopping and most long journeys if we don't have anything big to transport is hybrid. But I do have...

Mine is sub £100 with Direct Line business.

I would say you still want PL insurance, unless you want to foot the bill if you damage something in a customers house while working, And register with hmrc as self employed.

Well SWMBO works in a commercial kitchen, all stainless steel worktops and commercial sized ovens, microwaves etc. She was telling me of staff getting a "tingle" from one (of 3) microwaves. They had reported it and had electricians out twice. The problem was the one on the lower shelf, the 2...

For jobs that require building control anyway, new builds, extensions etc, it is covered by building control. BC will want to see an EIC for the electrical work and that is all. If the local BC don't know you they may check your qualifications. I am known and EIC's accepted in 3 council areas...

My motto is "never touch anything that my neon screwdriver has not touched first"

Choose a different smart switch that does not need a neutral. Some work by charging a battery from L / SL when the load is turned off.

An ASHP is typically 300% to 400% efficient. So you could get 4 times the heat out than the electricity consumed to make it do that. It's not magic, that extra energy has come from the air outside, you have cooled down a lot of air and in so doing extracted energy from it. So some people...

And as an ASHP user, they don't require any routine maintenance.

The OP has it the wrong way round. It is the HOB that is usually the big consumer of power (unless you have bought one of those inadequate low power induction hobs that claim to run from a 13A plug) and a single oven os usually no more than 2.2kW and could run from a plug. If your kitchen is...

Fine if you are wiring it from scratch, but I want to transplant the original wiring, connector blocks and all, complete, from the old smashed box to a new one, so it needs to be a similar size. Just patching up and making safe some defects in an old house with an old owner as cheap and easy as...

I did encounter an old metal fronted socket once where if you made the cables entering a terminal too long, they could touch the metal front and short out (demonstrating why the front MUST be earthed) but as this socket is described as "old" it is unlikely to be metal fronted.

The junction boxes used in spider wired lighting systems years ago, typically about 6" square or more. I have a broken one that needs replacing don't want to rewire the lights, just want a new box to transplant it all into.

In the absence of a picture yet, we can only guess. My guess is there are 2 live tails into the CU and only one N tail. Only one of the main switched has the N tail connected and that one disconnects N for peak and off peak circuits. If I am right you need to daisy chain the single N tail to...

Picture of the board please?

E27 fittings can sometimes be very poor, and some E27 lamps are odd sizes. The result can be the contact that makes contact to the screw thread, does not and needs a bit of bending to adjust it.

35mm

Every new build I have worked on here in the last 20 years has a 25mm or sometimes even a 35mm (depending on length) incomer and 25mm tails from supply head to meter. My own house has 35mm concentric incomer that joins under the street to 95mm for the run up the road to the transformer.

Post picture of where new oven is connected, presumably to a cooker outlet plate? What IR tests have you done on any / all circuits?