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I used to make steel knock down targets. Basically life size pigeons & rabbits on a base you with a hole in the head. Base gets pegged to the ground. Pellet goes thru the hole, hits a lever that drops the whole thing flat. You reset it upright with a long string from the firing position. ...

An SBS , all RCBO, 10 way board is 317mm wide inc the 100A isolator. Maybe do away with the need for a double stacker altogether? Is the bell transformer still used? 

It's a shuttle craft! It "docks" alright but that big new slot up the front is in the wrong place. Needs to be the slot's width further forward! Easy fix. I'm aiming for an integral sliding piece that will engage with the Parkside tool base. Hoping to print the sliding piece, captive against...

In my quest for contacts to engage with the blades on the tools I'm thinking fuse holders! 0.38mm gap on this:  FUSE CLIP BLADE 500V 30A PCB

Nope, not for now.

@Sharpend, can you take some photos please of a Milwaukee battery. Looking down on top, from the side, at an angle etc. Cheers.

Breakfast livener.

Councils attitudes vary widely, even between neighbouring ones. One I know shows an inspection fee for electrical work on their website but have said in writing they do not in fact offer that service and suggest you use a scheme member.

@Sharpend, a few quick snaps taken at silly o'clock this morning before I left. Didn't have high expectations but it's come out quite well. (This took 4 hours. A high quality print, done at 0.1mm layers and incorporating a section to go into the Makita tool could take like 9, 10, 11 hours)...

@Sharpend, printing that first link I put up. Don't wait up, it'll take about 4 hours just for a rough, 0.3mm layer print. You can see how the holes get "reinforced". The "honeycomb" (called infill) on this is just 10% (solid plastic is 100%). It has a solid "skin" around the outside.

The consumption of alcohol tends to slow the design process down...

Not really. It takes Makita 18V batteries does it? That's good enough.

That usually doesn't end well. Really you want holes as part of the print and the software beefs them up and puts more "meat" round them. Leave it with me. I'll grab the .stl and play with it in AutoCAD after converting it to do so. I see there's holes in it already so it might actually line up...

The first link as I understand it is simply something that slides onto a Milwaukee battery and presents a flat top to bolt something like the top of a Makita battery to...so it slips into a Makita tool. Get it? Some call it a "breakout box" and take two wires off to power whatever. If adapting...

M12, M18? Something like this to attach to the Milwaukee tool: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:655904 Then a bit to go onto the Makita battery. I often plagiarise designs, taking the top of one and the bottom of another then grafting them together. As often as not I'll take an idea on...

The bent plated ones.

Fits OK. A little tweak to make on two slots. Just need to find a source for these contacts. I searched for: female, double leaf, spring, breadboard, receptacle, contacts etc and all combinations. No luck.

Just a little sliver to proof the edge detail fits: That's good.  Just widened the blade slots in the model and printing a test bit for that. 

Close but no banana! Slides in so far then goes tight, real tight just as it comes up to the blades. Might be the slots for the blade centres are slightly out. Another go tomorrow!