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And not to mention that a "13A plug" as designed seems incapable of carrying a 13A load for a long time without overheating. A fundamental design flaw? Or is it a case that a few well made ones will, but the majority won't?

If you end up replacing them, get fittings where you can replace the lamp probably with a GU10 lamp. I know they are getting harder to find as all the cheap places like to sell these type with non replacable bulbs.

So you have quite recent wiring, loop at switch wiring with this switch being the last one on the circuit. My money would be on a dodgy connection at the previous switch in the circuit, with a poor connection on the L or N looping out from it.

Unlikely. A dodgy switch would behave differently each time it is turned on. To rule it out, turn ALL the power off at the consumer unit, join both the switch wires together in a terminal block, switch power back on. If it still flashes, it is not the switch. Post a picture of the light...

Personally I would abandon the original CU and relocate to a new one inside the property. Who wants to go outside whenever something trips?

Post a picture to make it clearer? Junction box at top of the cupboard but then new wires go straight into consumer unit, no need for a junction box above the consumer unit. If you are not competent to make connections inside the consumer unit, get an electrician, it is a simple job so should...

I can't help myself but go round all the terminals and check tightness whenever I am in a CU. Perhaps the old wooden wylex's rarely caught fire because they had 2 screws for every termination, and they didn't have a silly busbar that relied on the installer getting it the right side of the...

I remember discussing that very fact when the metal CU's were being proposed.

First you need to core drill through the wall. You can hire drill and core bit but it is not a job for the faint hearted. Or just educate occupants. Go upstairs to a better ventilated toilet (probably already with a fan) for the smellies and just use the downstairs loo for a convenient pee.

I love the use of screwits, not seen them for a long time.

I am totally confused now. So you had a TIMER model wired with 3 cables? You now have a NON timer replacement and are happy with that? But you confused us by posting a pdf set of instructions relating to the timer version, which is not what you are now saying you have? In which case my...

So those instructions say it is a timer fan with the same 3 connections as the old fan. Why does your first picture only show 2 terminals then? Have they sent you something different to what you ordered?

New one does not have an overrun timer, so just use the switched L and N for the new fan and make the permanent L safe in a connector block EDIT: can you give more details about the new fan, as although it only has 2 terminals it appears to label them permanent L and N so does it have motion...

I was asked to connect one in an old cottage being renovated. To me it looks like some snake oil device. I have no idea if it worked or not. The thin wire just went all around the wall under the floor boards. IIRC it was not a loop of wire just a wire that was routed around and then ended...

You could also argue it is VERY likely the cable continues along the same line where it is covered so it does need a safe zone.

But I CAN see a partly exposed cable not in a safe zone.

I thought fixed appliances like that were supposed to be hard wired properly not plugged in? And shall we mention safe zones?

First you need to determine what the THREE red cables from the MCB do. Turn off the power, remove all three from the MCB and check with the multimeter if any of them show continuity from one to another. If they don't then connect them one at a time to the MCB, and with everything else on the...

The only way you will find out is with some basic testing. Do you have any form of test meter, even a simple multimeter? If it turns out to be radials, it really wants a smaller MCB or splitting onto multiple smaller MCB's. Any spare ways in your consumer unit? Do you have an RCD or more...

Yes thanks for the update, and glad you have got it sorted out.