Search results

maybe the thread is about Reading in Berkshire?

Greetings fellow TEF people... As the title thread says, I am connecting up this mitsubishi unit in our band room. The unit is a Mitsubishi SAF1000E7 ventilation and heat exchange unit. Basically a big air handling unit up in the roof with ducting in and out from outside and feed and return...

basically, 2 cables will be power + and -, 2 will be contact, and 2 will be tamper loop. As others have suggested, look for another contact on a window or door for inspiration or find a younger tech savvy teenager to find the pic on your phone! good luck :)

I've just bought a house.  On the property information form,  the owners admit electrical work has been done since 2005 but offer no certification. If I was really bothered, I would insist on an EICR being done. So you can deduce that any Tom, **** or Harry could have wired the house. Competent...

I think so, Scotland however, require licences.

does it have a timer on it? I don't know how many times I have gone to a cooker fault and its been to do with the timer. 

As others have said its easter weekend. Not everyone is on here ready to jump in with advice. Bathrooms are special locations and specific considerations have to be made. Best consult a spark for the best solution.

You are right of course Geoff, I jest. My local WB specialist is also a well known local plumber/ gas eng and he knows his stuff for sure. 

otherwise known as plumber :)

If its a combi boiler, when you turn a tap on a diverter valve takes water through he heat exchanger to the hot water pipes. When you turn the heating on the water is pumped around the flow and return pipes to the radiators. It sounds like you have a leak on the heating side? would help to have...

400mm armoured cable will run a factory.... :) welcome to the forum

Looks like it will have to stay there too. Sticker says do not remove

if the only way is wiring it from the lounge sockets, then I would suggest running a single cable from a 13a fused spur with a DP switch so in the event of any problems outside, you can switch off the external wiring and re set the RCBO or whatever protective device you have on the house wiring...

If you do intend just using freeview, you can get a tuner with a hard drive which will just plug in to HDMI and you can pause, record etc live TV or get sky or cable which just uses HDMI port. TBH not that many people use the TV's freeview digital tuners these days.

No decent sparky would do this. anything outside needs to be on its own dedicated circuit. A single run of 4mm on a radial circuit feeding the 2 sockets would do the job just fine. Or 2.5mm and rate the circuit at 20a to be on the safe side. You don't want something outdoors to interfere with...

I have a vintage bahco metric adjustable

no I'll put a go pro in 

My fridge is the same. every time I open the door the light seems to be on?

https://www.rexel.co.uk/uki/root-category/Lighting/Light-Fittings/Outdoor-Floodlights-%26-Spotlights/ODESSA-V2-LED-Floodlight-30W-3000lm-4000K-Black/p/2501123389 I was just looking at these this morning. fitted 2 of them approx 5 years ago. still going strong. Some rust on the brackets thats...

I know we should buy British but personally would avoid anything made by a certain firm in Staffs. On the subject of LED floods, I have fitted several NVR (from neweys) of various wattages on and around the Port where I work with very little in the way of failures.