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Heating element breaking down. They aren't hard to change, although you are likely to end up cursing the amount of sticky grease in the back of your oven 😀

PAR20 is commercial in my book, I think I've encountered it maybe once or twice in domestic premises. Fortunately ceilings were being I reboarded and skimmed, so they were replaced with modern downlighters.

And what attracts the dust?

that probably was correct at time of imstallation, apart from being mix and match, if that's what you are on about.

He could of course just fit an RCBO or RCD in a box external to the cu for the lighting circuit that feeds your bathroom. There's no need to replace the entire cu, just because it's not metal. The actual requirement is that the board be 'fire retardent' that doesn't mean it has to be metal

You can see the contact on RHS, it's ses.

That is the correct way to wire an Eddie.

the old recommendations was RCD protect the circuit, replace metal with plastic fittings and fit said label. However, I now see the recommendations are not to reconnect the circuit at all.

As I was saying. I suspect light switches and sockets aren't given the same double insulated rating as it would be dependent on the back box, and therefore the potential for the cover screws to be live under fault conditions unless they have the screw caps

I'm pretty sure pendants have class 2 stickers on these days, I'll have a look in my garage a bit later, and if you have a read of IET inspection and test guidelines, it talks about replacing metallic fittings with class 2, ie plastic, where the owner of a property refuses rewiring of circuits...

They certainly aren't class 1 otherwise they would have an earth terminal

your basic plastic light switch is class II, as are sockets and all other plastic accessories. Now, the regulation you have stated covers double or reinforced insulation.

why not?

just static discharging via earth of accessory. Seem to remember you can get anti-static polish.

makes you wonder if the quality of the galvanising has declined. I used to do a lot of work in Salcombe, which suffers from salty sea air, corrosive enough to reduce a standard outside floodlight (the black painted aluminium cast type) to a furry mess of corrosion in a year. An old school I...

Oh that's definetly true, I've spent 30 years in factories, and 20 years working in domestic. I've never seen rusted out swa in domestic. Now if you think swa is not mechanically protected, then do pray tell us how you would install the cable?

you mostly work on industrial sites though, where damage is more likley to occur.

But how long had it been there?

Yeah, but the steel is galvanised to prevent corrosion, and the outer sheath and steel is to protect the inner live cores. Like any cable run, including fte clipped to a skirting board, you need to assess the likelihood of impact damage, and if the likelihood is low, swa is perfectly acceptable.

mine does, I disabled it sometime ago due to a slightly leaky doorseal which I have yet to fix