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If the ‘smart’ switch/dimmer needs a neutral you’ve got a problem there whatever the two wires are (almost certainly live and switched live and in normal 1 way switch /dimmer use it doesn’t really matter which way round they go in C and L1) 

Also before going too far make sure the LED module you have will work in the existing reflector -  you'll need the LED chip in the position where the Bulb's filament was (which may be tricky) or you will have a very uneven /doughnut beam I converted a couple of old-favourite maglight mini's...

So assuming the LED is as described and you are going to use the maximum current (this risks problems with heat sinking and thermal runaway) the first question is did the LED light?  if so then the wiring seems to be correct At 5v  4.7R and  3.3V the resistor would need to dissipate 0.56 Watts...

Keep us posted 🙂  What I'm trying to say is until there's something connected to the inverter output that is pulling (or trying to pull) 200W you are never going to know if the system can supply 200W under any particular weather conditions etc.

Standard PVC cable insulations are generally rated for reaching 65C (70 max) in free air under their full load so if the environment is already 65c they can't be asked to carry much current at all It's the wrong time of the year to 'stick a thermometer up there' and see what 'extremely' hot...

May be a silly question - what is the inverter feeding?     Your voltages sound OK (suggesting there's some light hitting the panels) but It's not going to draw much current if there is no load or the load is an already full battery. The Panel voltage  off /on load gives a reasonable idea of...

Thanks,  Interesting thoughts,  but different risks and reasons and ways to do it 😀.       I might just start cutting the darn things off and washing my hands of it !

mmm   Interesting to hear what others do then . .    I would find that a bit untidy /confusing - especially putting an extra Earth wire (plus L &N ???)  in the E 's vs the L's and N's etc.     Maybe I'm wrong 

Oh dear . . . 600mm is 'safe' where the ground is likely to be disturbed in normal usage (e.g. field /flowerbed)    As the cable is to be protected with a slab and a thick layer of concrete that should defeat most attempts to carelessly dig it over the logic here should run : How can/will...

Normal but (my at least) best practice is to attach a lettering tape note about where the other end runs to and whether it was in re-usable condition when disconnected

The only place I've seen it advertised is in China but I suppose it may make sense in some industry somewhere...

Who changed the Board ?  If not you, why can you safely fit the Submain (or did it all look pretty easy)

It's usually touted as the only DIY way to deal with poor solder joints under big flat BGA (100's of solder ball connections underneath ) IC's like Graphics chips, processors and soldered memory etc. Some Apple laptops were famous for this problem and some boards reportedly did get fixed this...

Any reset you can do without using a on screen menu is worth checking, as are any brightness controls that might be turned down Any trace of a faint but un-illuminated picture is worth investigating further (backlights can be repaired fairly easily) Ignore the bad advice on YouTube on almost...

Sorry it would be 47uH with those codes if a choke.      Losing the plot here  😂😂😂

I guess a circuit diagram is out of the question but it also appears to have failed in a dramatic fashion.    I’d be using a pin as a probe to see if I could tap into the broken circuit in the hole.    If there’s resistance to either end of more than an ohm or two it’s probably a resistor and...

Whew.  Little more context here guys What/where was this ? Did this component fail in service  ?  Was it intended to fuse or fail in a fault condition ?  what current is it carrying at what frequency ? if it was a fusible safety resistor for example (often seen in TVs and power supplies)...

It sounds as if the heating system has multiple supplies - possibly on different RCBO's etc.  It's a recipe for problems.    Pick one supply point and test it properly (properly = not just with a high impedance voltmeter or a neon etc.) Then connect the controller to it and see what happen on...

The thing is that a decent MFT or multimeter will have been checked or even calibrated severalplaces in the ohms and Kohms range while a megger etc was probably checked at 1 or 2 Mohms If they all say 10 Megs I wouldn't worry, but if an insulation tester says its 0.03 Mohms I would not be...