Search results

So if there is an imbalance of voltage but still within a credible range   the inverter should not have failed and should  be able to produce at least some power.  You may have made the array sub-optimal (TBH the UK weather is sub optimal too) but if there's voltage into the inverter I'd far...

I've got the  Flir TG267 - a really nice bit of kit that can still (sort-of ) pay for itself .    Much higher resolution (160x120 thermal) than the cheaper ones (e.g  the TG165 is 60x60 on thermal)  and apart from bad connections it's very good at finding heating pipes etc before the drill /...

Got the same.  It's great in awkward places.    I think the only flaw in my eye is that 'continuity' seems to be anything under 470KΩ which while technically true (if insulators start at 1MΩ) isnt always as helpful for fault finding dodgy connections as a lower cut off would be. .

Having a look back through my info this manufacturer seemed to have covered your situation   http://greenbrook.co.uk/product-pdfs/AHPM_Ins.pdf If possible I would get the (/an) electrician to wire a second identical alarm in the 'cathedral' bit  as they show, as close as possible to the room...

The vastly smaller sink- socket separations allowed in kitchens and the awkward trend for installing baths in Bedrooms is likely causing a re-look at what is a sensible reaching /splashing distance.  The 'end users' have of course been running extensions leads etc into bathrooms for years...

Lacking modern safety features and close to the end of its useful life or less politely If this installation was a 50 year old horse any Vet would know exactly what to do  . .   

IMHO Best to avoid higher voltage (500+) L to N insulation testing on a ‘populated’ circuit . At best the results may be confusing and you risk blame for the cunningly unfused spur-ed Chinese garden floodlight not working later...

Sounds like you are measuring an induced voltage although it is unusual that it would be as high as the full 230. What meter are you using ? First question :  Did it work before you started ? Second:  Did you photograph the old connections? Third: What are you using to join the cables ?

Screwfix only sell it because they had a trillion miles in stock and people with old houses think that's what's needed to harmonise later cables to match existing 

Forget reading the voltage as it won’t vary much on a normal meter until you are reaching absolute minimum (as the wave shape changes first rather than the peak voltage) Make sure the lamps are actually dimmable and make sure the dimmer is specifically intended for LED lamps.   Both are needed...

See if it works at night . .  Having said that I now test all cheapo PIR LED lights for a few hours indoors before even bothering to try them on a wall /ladder

You have a requirement for an electrician.     Much depends on where the “16mm” cable comes from, is protected, and how - not DIY 

For a small overload the most likely result is long term overheating of cable and/or accessories rather than an abrupt disconnection.   I’m not sure why you’re happy with this ... 

As others have said.  Double pole switch fuse (13A) to protect and isolate, correctly rated SWA down the garden and have one 2KW and one 1KW heater !  If that’s not good enough you need to cable right back to the consumer unit 

I haven't used it -as already mentioned pushing air through 8m of ducting with bends from one end is a big challenge.  Hence my suggestion of an inline mixed flow fan .      I looked at the Greenwood’s installation data which is short on performance data also repeats my suggestion to use rigid...

8 m is a very long distance.  Things that will help are : Use a powerful 'mixed flow' inline fan in the ceiling /loft that is roughly 1/3 of the way along the 8 m Use a decent fan !!    I've had good results with these over 6m...

A lot of the ‘new’ incandescent lamps really are 220v (Asia /USA ) which shortens their life significantly on 230v.  Also a lot are rubbish 

This can happen when there is a rats nest of old junction boxes or choc blocks under the floor or in walls as a result of DIY, bodged rewire etc.  Moving or tugging the cable at the socket introduces a problem you can't 'see' but which is a hazard and will now need dealing with AND THE CIRCUITS...

Only thing I'd add is don't bury it too close to the fence posts.  😅    Firstly they will then blow over more easily due to the disturbed soil/sand and the fence guys who come to brace or replace them (probably at your expense) will then stick their drill/spade through the cable to completely...

Blocked condensate drain normally raises an alarm but un-blocking it is never a bad thing.    There is no mechanism I can think of where a blocked drain leads to pressure loss . . If it happens again I'd ask them to send a heating engineer next time  . .