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Why do you think that might be a problem?

You can sometimes get incompatible led lights and dimmer to cooperate by having a small filament bulb in the system. You could try 7 LED and 1 filament/halogen?

Can you just not use 13A domestic type sockets and instead a non-standard socket strip like IEC or Schuko or CEE etc etc then Mrs Mop can't plug in the kettle and knock out the server gear?

The light bulbs in old British Rail carriages from 1950s and earlier had three bayonet pins too, so I think the concept goes back a very long time. I always thought the idea might have been to stop BR workers nicking the bulbs for use at home!

Try reversing the cream and jam sequence and see if that cures the indigestion 😁

The hardware side is easy and the VoIP service was straight forward but entering the software settings for the ata was tedious and took a few goes before I got it right.

If you have an internet connection then you can get a box called ATA analogue telephone attachment that permits VOIP calls. It has a telephone socket and does the job your local phone exchange used to do. Some even accept old pulse dialled connections. My favourite model is the Grandstream HT801...

There are crimp barrels with ridged insides designed to make reliable connections with solid wire, “solistrand” is one brand name.

To be fair it did matter back in the old days with incandescent filament bulbs, the heat distribution from a candle bulb hung upside down could destroy the holder.

As I wrote earlier the fault was most likely a resistor in the startup dropper gone open circuit!

If I understand correctly then it seems like one or more of your cables runs in your ceiling/under the upstairs flat's floor. They have tapped into that and rigged up a lamp or something so they can see when you have turned off your distribution board. They then scurry around temporarily...

The looseness does not matter, as long as the sensor clip is closed. The sensor is a kind of current clamp meter (search online and see how huge some are) and all that matters is that it fully encircles the wire, loose is fine.

You say the faulty motor trips the main breaker. Can you describe that breaker, is it MCB or RCBO or what and what are its current ratings? Can you determine if the tripping is due to overload or current imbalance? Is the supply three phase or single? What is the motor power rating?

The fault is likely in the startup section, once running the supply controller powers itself happily from its own output but for the first few milliseconds uses a dropper resistor from the mains. It is not a rare problem and I seen several cases . It can be as simple as a resistor gone open...

CPC FT00715 is what I have used. One per switched circuit. <https://cpc.farnell.com/ampohm-wound-products/fe-sp-hdr23-100-100/contact-suppressor-0-1uf-100r/dp/FT00715?st=network%20capacitor>

Just to be clear: are the lights switched on and flickering off, or switched off and flickering on? If the first then suspect a loose connection or supply problem. If the latter then suspect stray pickup by capacitive coupling and try an R-C snubber across the lights.

Solar cells output voltage does not vary much with light , it is the current they produce that varies with insolation. They are current sources not voltage sources like batteries.

I always have a plastic grommet in the metal back box where cables enter - only takes a few openings closings to abrade the cable sheath.

Is it the kind of switch with a green and red button? Machines like that often have a no-volt release coil safety feature - the switch will only latch on if the coil is energised and will drop out if the power cuts. A safety feature so you aren't harmed when the power is restored. The coil can...

One disadvantage of having the battery at the DC side is that when the solar generated output is charging the battery you will be exporting less to the grid. This correlates to the advantage of AC side battery which can be charged with imported electricity as well as own generated solar...