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I would stick with the approved connections as in the instruction book and my picture. One white wire from pendant in far left terminal with lives in the one beside it and the other white wire in the far left with neutrals in the next two. Earths to earth terminal and sleeved green and yellow...

If the house has gas central heating and no electric shower and the summerhouse is not to be used on a constant basis i.e. house oven and summer house oven not simultaneously in use then you have good chance of your diversity calculation coming out positively for a 100A supply, but you would...

It looks like it is already wired up and just needs an incoming supply and a lot of attention to electrical safety; enclosures ,barriers and cable colours spring to mind.

You would have to provide details of how you are powering this system, what actual products you have and your level of technical expertise to be able to do this work. Otherwise we are guessing, presumably if it is a kit then it should have wiring instructions included.

The instructions for the box you have pictured state explicitly "This Box provides a convenient housing for temporary outdoor use ONLY. Although it may be left installed for long periods of time, it is NOT intended to be permanent arrangement, and MUST NOT be part of a fixed wiring...

You will either have to do a continuity test on each wire or if you look very closely it is possible there are faint coloured stripes within the wire (not easy to see).

Despite the lack of information, I have found in a similar sort of situation that the "gold" flex appears to have a thinner sheath and can fit through holes originally intended for two single core cables, with some encouragement. Flat two core flex is also sometimes useful, if no earth is...

Presumably you mean something like this? Timer operates contactor coil which provides double pole switching to sockets.

Multiple considerations here. Car charge points are preferred not to be fed from a PME supply and ambiguous and impractical rules are in place about this. If you were installing a TT car charge point then you would not need the PME earth. Obviously if you are working on the outgoing meter...

It is possible it is still connected to the lights but I would expect to see more than one cable into the junction box. It may be the lights have been disconnected at some point. Within the junction box are three, four, five or six terminals for connecting cables. A common use would be as in...

Just looks like a single cable going in so not connected to anything, but undo the screw in the centre and take the lid off and see is there is anything else connected there.  Be careful as the conductor might be live inside the box.

The screw holes in the base mean it does not have a base plate. Ones called loop in or 3 plate and no screw holes are the one with plates, they are larger in diameter as well.

Ahh just found this picture of batten holder bases, obviously the cable comes in from below not from each side.

Electrically any cable should have an earth at every point of use, however this is in relation to fixed wiring.  For a plastic lamp the wiring does not need to be earthed, though if you are using any metal fittings then these would need to be earthed. Use two core flex it will be OK. The link...

What a thing to say about the beloved EC! Probably true though :innocent !

I would not say it is safe to randomly plug wires into terminals. It would be best to test to ensure you know which cables are doing what before connecting them. If there is still a fault on the lighting circuit then this would need to be found and rectified before attempting to apply power...

If you wire the lamps in series and just use a standard 400W dimmer switch you should be OK. Wiring them in series will dim them quite a lot and then the dimmer could be used to get the intensity you want.

A possible cause is that there was a failure of the wiring at the lights causing a short circuit which was noted at the dimmer switch because of the high current through the switch, replacing the dimmer may well have restored power to the circuit but the original fault has probably blown clear...

You will probably also want to get a suitable socket to wire onto the lights in place of the battery pack so that you can connect the above power supply. Observe the correct polarity, the centre contact of the power supply is the positive (red) connection.

The previous light presumably could be switched on permanently at a remote switch. If your current light does not have a terminal for this then just terminate the core into a terminal block or push fit connector in the back of the light, then it will be available for the next light if required...