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It all worked so put it back together.

Ok, I understand. Tomorrow I will check. 3 connections everything seemed to work. I understand how the two way switch works now.

Yes that is correct there is C also. I assumed L1 and L2 are connected regardless of switched live or not. Replaced with dimmer with just standard switch... the other option is that I put both into same terminal.

Ok, thank you. It works. I think I guessed correctly. The new switch has L1 and L2. So I used these for two of the red wires which I think were combined in one terminal in the old switch? Also, I noticed on the new switch, there is no earth connection? Only in back box.

Hi, I am just replacing an old dimmer (covered in burn marks). There are 3 red wires. I think there were 2 red in one terminal and 1 red in another. Does it matter which way around they go back if being replaced with a standard switch? I couldn't understand why there were three cables and not two?

Decided just radial one socket btw...

Also, most are leasehold and are sold without power, just as they are (no nearby supply and cannot connect). I am fairly lucky to be granted permission to connect, they were indecisive, so I am keen incase they chage there mind at a later date. They were indecisive, because the garage has no...

No not a wind up, just needs to be right 🙂 why would anyone pay an extra 1.5k+ because garages in London sale for excess... some even for 80k+ especially if they are freehold...

Part of me just thinks do it properly with a double socket in the centre of each side wall...

No honesty, I am getting it connected. Sounds abit extreme, but it is worth about 35k. 39-40k with power. It is in a really affluent part of outskirts of London. Someone with a nice car or extra storage/utility will buy it. So power maximises it.

It is a stand along garage attached to no house, with no electricity supply. It will be connected soon. The power network have agreed to connect it. I use it for my business as storage. Fortunately, it sides with a substation. It is acturally 2.5k to connect. Price increases by about 4-5k with...

Hi, I posted about lighting before. The consumer unit I am getting has a 32A breaker. I was going to install just one double socket (radial) next the the comsumer unit. Which would mean switching to 20A? Also, would someone recommend 32A in a garage? I am right in saying I would need to then...

Still waiting for power network to connect it 🙂 it isn't a part of any house. As mentioned, I want to sell it in three years... so power is a bonus!

Yes, I have decided to put two 5ft up. It is dry inside, and fluorescents can start in sub zero (so I read). I have opted for flourescents as they are a tried and tested method. Just took a while figuring it out. There is room as the joists are pretty deep. I need to put up two metal cable...

Or othe option is just to fix new timber.. would a double 5ft florescent work, in the centre? Across the centre length of the garage? I think there maybe nore than 5ft inbetween the centre joints...

The other simple option would be have one bulb on a joist near the back, the diagonal battern type. And just leave it for whoever buys it next. It is a standalone garage, and not with any house. If it has power they sell easier. This is the only reason I am connecting it. One bulb would light...

I suppose the other option, is just two battern bulb holders.... or just have them both on the centre joists one on each side... or two small tube inbetween the joists (which means fixing some new smaller timber...

Hi, I have viewed the inside of the garage. I really believe florescent tubes would be more suitable. The lights need to go sideways on the innerside of the joists. I think LED are just too fancy for temp lighting.

I'll need to look, thanks Binky. Just out of interest, the other thing I am doing is having two doors at the front that open outwards. This give an option to leave one permanently closed, with more storage space behind that door.

Cobwebs etc... no water tight.