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Yet another example of the all to common, builder/kitchen fitter/loft-conversion bod/bathroom fitter/landscape gardener/Cowboy.. etc.. Who say they can "do the electrics for you", but in reality only know how to joint wires together. The condition and appropriateness of the supply...

To comply with current regs it should be a "Type A" RCD rather than the "AC" item already in the CU.. Why didn't the original electrician doing the physical wiring alterations to the lights, notice this before commencing the work? (As these are basic checks that should be done before...

I am going to say that I would agreed with Fleeting.. 559.5.1.206 has certainly been around since the Yellow book 17th Ed, Amd 3, 2015.. Which I think was a similar time to when recommendations for providing neutrals at light switches was also recommended (559.5.1.208) So back to SES...

Have you split the orange from the valve, and the "water-on" feed from the cylinder stat, (at wherever they join before feeding the boiler CFH), to confirm 100% it is coming from the Valve orange, and not the Cylinder stat water-on, (whatever colour it is?).. Remember.. "Water On / Heat Off"...

As others have said... 99.9999% sure that the static shock is due to external generating sources discharging via a "correctly earthed electrical accessory".. i.e. the static is NOT coming from the electrical installation, it is being discharged via the installation! And if the electrical...

Looks like a bit of second-hand butchered flex to me..? Otherwise those fine strands would have ferrule/crimp over them. I would start by trimming the sheath and cores back a bit.. Crimp on some ferrules.. Then some continuity tests to verify not just polarity, but earth continuity to any...

Regulation 526.5 requires that every termination is either within a suitable accessory, equipment enclosure... (Such as the boxes you mention...) OR.. "An enclosure partially formed or completed with building material which is non-combustible when tested to BS 476-4" Which is why many light...

I have got a few of them that I use on three-core flexes to a plug & socket for temporary testing of various items I may want to energise quickly..... BUT they they can be a bit inflexible compared to other single connectors...

That page 6 with the test results seems to have numbers and results not fitting into the correct boxes....? unless something strange has happened on the uploading of your page images, and yours looks all correct? Either way... I can't quite figure out how he has got metric cable sizes plus CPC...

If there are no CPC's on the lighting circuits, then they are probably due for rewiring by now as CPC's have been required since 1966 (just under 60years ago!) Best practice guide 1 does offer some guidance... e.g. page 10 points 8.1 thro 8.7...

For your example you would need 3x 2way wago connectors.. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WA412C.html Or personally for connections to light fittings I prefer these https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WA101.html or if you need to loop in & out plus the light fitting...

Internally looks like a pain in the bum to me! Are there any options for going out through to external walls and accessing both new socket and existing socket positions via some holes drilled through the walls, via suitably protected external wiring?

I never figured out how this internal SWA joint at a domestic garage CU feeding a "summerhouse" outbuilding got so bad.. As the cable colours suggest it cannot be that old???? Unless "Bob The Builder" left the unterminated, unprotected end of the SWA, open to the elements for a long period...

What recommendations does your "helpful local electrician suggest"? And/or.. why are you asking random persons on an internet forum if you do have a good local electrician??

Forgot to add.... Back in my college days... A favourite phrase from one of our lecturers was... "Any ***** can join wires to make something work... But good electrical design, installation and testing is about ensuring that the power is disconnected fast enough before you kill someone!"...

If this wiring has never been previously energised... AND there are no records of any test readings on your electrical certificates... Then it would first need "Dead-Testing" to confirm it is safe to energise.. Then once the dead testing has proved satisfactory it can be energised so that live...

Unless you can access more of the sheathed cable that enters the leg... Then, "safe and robust" are probably not an option...? e.g. Although wiring regulations do not actually apply to plug-in accessories... you can get some useful tips for electrically safe repairs from what BS761 wiring...

Have a re-read of my post#10.. I think you will find the whole issue is your landlords responsibility!

Why??? Most manufactures generic labels are very limited IMHO... Its far better to have a reasonable label printer and just make more accurate label descriptions for any circuits that you work on!

Well that has exhausted my Sunday night post beer suggestions....!! Lets hope someone else can offer further ideas?