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Or you could buy one of these thrust races and make it even easier: http://www.stakesys.co.uk/q-max-thrust-race

Does the pipe feeding the circulating water to the coil in the HW cylinder ever get cooler? If not, perhaps the valve port to the HW side never closes, so there's never enough pressure to push the water round the radiators with an adequate flow rate. Maybe the cylinder stat is faulty, thus...

Do you not think that the main switch is an adequate form of isolation? I assume that there is one.

Is that true? I was under the impression that work on buildings had to comply with the Building Regulations, whether notifiable or not.

In which case a biscuit cutter router bit might do depending on depth required. This one's 4mm wide, but I'm sure you could find a 3mm one: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-biscuit-jointing-cutter-952567

You test to ensure that the works you do are safe. For a replacement light switch this might include a Zs (if metal plate) and an RCD test (if fitted). I don't believe that anything more is justified. I'm not 'taking responsibility' for the whole circuit or the whole installation. Of course, if...

So do you open up the board and disconnect the circuit neutral to allow an IR test on every switch replacement?

Here's a more successful boat/digger combo: https://www.youtube.com/embed/7odAbL3Ygts?feature=oembed

Deleted. Failed to read post properly!

When was this consumer unit installed? And who installed it?

Must admit, I'm intrigued to know what danger might occur in a conservatory that wouldn't happen elsewhere in the house.

'3.8 If an installer is not a registered competent person and has not appointed a registered third-party certifier, then before work begins the installer must notify a building control body.' How do you interpret 'must' as 'can'?

FFX have some additional reductions on some already good prices.

Would I test an MCB for tripping current? No, I don't possess the appropriate test equipment and the regs don't require it. However, I do check circuit breakers and isolators for correct isolation as outlined in Appendix 6 of the current regs. See page 431, Examples of items requiring...

Surely "testing the switch function", ie that it's functioning correctly, is exactly what you should be doing on an EICR?

These Knipex 'pliers wrenches' are brilliant if you don't want to mark a fitting. Parallel smooth jaws but high gripping force: http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&page=group_detail&groupID=1500 Quite expensive, but only to be expected for Knipex quality. Edit: video...

Why so? I've not had a problem with them.

Surely it's intended for the electrician doing the next consumer unit change or similar work?

Is it an easy job to adjust the clutch?

No mate. 4m longer.  :slap