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With this problem there is the customer complaint "that metal switch / light fitting has been there for many years and it hasn't killed anyone up to now so why might it kill someone now" The big issue here is does a label at the consumer unit make it safe for continued use and properly address...

It is available in a range of coil voltages when you dig into the specs

You have provided no information on the motor you are using on this machine and having looked up the NVR control you are using it is looking like you are creating a disaster that is waiting to happen The relay you link to the switching duty of AC7b which is rated at 7A is probably not sufficent...

I think an industrial limit switch would be a bit more robust than a microswitch for this application

Virgin normally have an external wall mounted junction box just extend the Virgin cable round the outside of the property and drill though by the socket to mount the internal box.

Seen quite a few rusted out SWA's in domestic properties outside, garden and pond lighting being the favorites, a lot down to poor installation, leaky fittings or wrong glands Without eyes on it is difficult as no one size fits all in the past I have installed SWA in conduit, deep channel...

I don't think that is necessarily true as more consideration is given to the method of erection than it is in the domestic setting

The blue connector is one half of a Click Flow connector which a lot of electrical wholesalers sell. Given it is not clear how the circuit is protected (fused) it may be better to swap it out for one of these trailing sockets

Trying to look at the pictures but it is giving me a server error which suggests that the source is not accessible

The last one I fixed a sock had got between the drum and the tub and then lodged in the drain pipe to the pump causing it to drain extremely slowly It's good to have a wet vac handy when you tilt it back, use the door release open the door and vac the water out

The outer sheath isn't Armoured in fact in cold weather it becomes very brittle and takes very little impact to split it open, now explain to me how it is protected from damage

Really, the integity of SWA is only as good as the unbroken sheath, crack the sheath and once a bit of water gets in the armouring starts to degrade eventually turning to rust May be you should look up reg 522.6

So how will you protect them from being damaged

If the boiler is compatible with the Opentherm technology then the Wiser could run the boiler with that

A lot depends on which boiler you have some use mains voltage on the thermostat some are low voltage

So commercially it is a barely viable repair, as a DIY repair is it worth the risk of a serious or fatal injury to a family member The problem you have is looking at what little cable is still protruding from the unit there is no real viable safe repair that could be done unless you could...

And if you can't get into it, it is likely to be a cheap product that probably isn't worth repairing anyway

Wiring diagram for the wiser with a mid position 3 port valve The controller should be a straight swap

Drayton Wiser fits the standard backplate

That meter looks to have 3 outputs with the two red and one brown cable on the right of the meter and the Southern Electric label on the backboard is clearly indicating 3 rates with readings for rate 1, 2 & 3. So was this a Southern Electric tariff and Octopus don't have an equivalent tariff