3D Printer Enclosure

[OnOff]

Wasn't it GCE O and A level for Ordinary & Advanced?

 

[kerching]

Wasn't it GCE O and A level for Ordinary & Advanced?

Yep, correct

i had a senior moment

if you were thick they advised you to do a CSE, in which a A was equiv of GCE scrape through

i did CSE, dunno why as I also did O level

got an A in the CSE and a A or 1 in the O level.

hardest CSE question.

fill in the missing units

a kitchen table is   1 ??? Tall

ft

m

kg

joule

°C

makes you wonder

 

[OnOff]

I did O Levels. Took 8 or 9 and got just 3 at C grade. 

All boys grammar school. Hated the place. A school reunion for me would be another Columbine. I'd pull the trigger/press the button with glee.

Can't say one good thing about the place. Not strictly true, one master ran the electronics club and would bring in tons of surplus tat. I liked that...and fighting...and fighting. Once hit the PE master but give him his due he was very good about it as the kid I was aiming for ducked. Avoided expulsion by the skin of my teeth in the lower and upper houses. 

I'd have probably been deemed special needs now. ADD and then some back then. It was just termed thick back then!

 

[kerching]

Grammar here too passed 11 plus and Entrance exam so,it was all free

also,hated the place!

on the plus side....Girls grammar next door. Taught me a thing or two

 

[Geoff1946]

Same here. Fortunate enough to get into a grammar. I can't say I hated it but I wouldn't want to go back either. I knew from an early age I wanted to do something technical, but it was very much a classics school.  I have subsequently appreciated the quality of the teaching of basics, particularly English language. I decided to leave after  O levels for a student apprenticeship (leading to  engineering OND & HND) . 

When I discussed my plan with the careers master he told me I was stupid then never spoke to me again. 

Just one teacher, officially the woodwork teacher, had technical leanings and actually put on technical drawing for a small group of us. I was quite good at technical drawing at the time, and it was a skill which served me well.

CAD however passed me by!  Quite well on in my career I went on a two day course on reading the CAD drawings then being created. This was completely beyond my comprehension and my efforts were frustrated by a lack of keyboard skills.. It was about thirty years ago and I had only had a computer on my desk for a short while.  It didn't really matter in the end. I was managing teams and never really felt the need to read CAD drawings.

 

[OnOff]

Grammar here too passed 11 plus and Entrance exam so,it was all free

also,hated the place!

on the plus side....Girls grammar next door. Taught me a thing or two

No idea how I passed the 11+. 

Parents were always comparing me to my older brother, he did this, he did that etc. He went to grammar so I had to. I wanted to go to the new comp with my mates. 

He's a barrister btw

 

[Andy™]

my current print. 24 hours in of estimated 46 hours. longest single print ive done. all to organise battery storage in my van.



still got most of the drawers to print yet

 

[NozSpark]

my current print. 24 hours in of estimated 46 hours. longest single print ive done. all to organise battery storage in my van.

View attachment 10841

still got most of the drawers to print yet

View attachment 10842

I guess you go through a fair few button cells then????

 

[Andy™]

I guess you go through a fair few button cells then????

yes, and all sorts of batteries. at the moment its bit of a mess, random boxes with AA etc, random bags with other sizes. 

 

[OnOff]

Success! Needed to connect the "3rd wire" from the Makita battery to the Ferrex tool and it runs fine.

Need of course to remodel the adapter and reprint now!

Not all tools need the 3rd wire to run. 

Moral is test odd battery / tool combos with fly leads before designing & printing.

Nards! 

Post above I mistakenly wrote Makita when I meant that attaching the "3rd wire" from a BOSCH Li-ion battery and the hedge trimmer runs just fine without cutting out every two seconds.

HOWEVER...if I connect the "TH" pin on the Makita clone battery to the 3rd pin on the Ferrex tool, rather than running for 2 seconds and stopping the hedge trimmer just doesn't work at all.

 

[OnOff]

Continuing the learning curve!

Lad is printing a "connector" to pair two Oculus Rift controllers for one of his mates. A 7-piece print. (Adds a new dimension when you're playing Beat Saber).

Halfway through printing the piece which is now the 'V' in the picture he ran out of RS Pro PLA filament. Switched to Steadytech PLA. The finished print just snapped, with little force, in two, right at the junction of the two different PLAs.



RS Pro on the left (much glossier), Steadytech PLA on the right:

 

[OnOff]

I finally finished my Makita battery to Champion circular saw! (Finished the second set of parts to convert the BiL's one too). The saws were bought with two Nicad batteries and charger, in their own case, years ago, at 75% off marked price for £25 when a Focus/Do It All was closing. Never seen much use as it didn't have much grunt and the batteries died quickly. A quick video at this link:









https://flic.kr/p/2kDdSQh

I do note the saws no load speed is only around 2500rpm compared to say a modern Makita that runs at twice that. If cheap enough I guess I could try a gruntier motor from Banggood, AliExpress etc.

My previous attempt at converting a Rolson ("quality tools ") 18V grinder to work with 18V Makita batteries looked like it was a winner until the tool burnt out.

Tried the converted Champion on some 18mm ply at the weekend and it struggled a bit. 

For my next trick I'll be making a converter for this from the corner shop:

https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03220/18v-multi-function-tool-bare-unit/dp/TL19690

 

[Phoenix]

Let me know if you ever do one for the old style makita batteries

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-1834-Power-Battery-2-6Ah/dp/B000256RDC

I've got a makita circ saw that runs off those bought years ago, never had much use and the batteries are long past their best!

 

[OnOff]

Let me know if you ever do one for the old style makita batteries

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Makita-1834-Power-Battery-2-6Ah/dp/B000256RDC

I've got a makita circ saw that runs off those bought years ago, never had much use and the batteries are long past their best!

You want to run it on new style Makita batteries?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18V-Li-ion-to-for-Makita-Adapter-18V-Ni-cd-Ni-Mh-Batteries-Converter-M-U-/193499504996?

 

[Phoenix]

Wow, never know these were commerially available

 

[NozSpark]

I have one that allows me to use my Makita Impact driver with my Dewalt batteries

 

[OnOff]

Wow, never know these were commerially available

My chippy mate bought a couple to use new DeWalt Li-ion batteries on his old DeWalt drills same as what you want to do with your Makita. He reckons the "triggers" burnt out in both the old drills. (I hate DeWalt anyway).

Doable, what you want. I'll print the parts if you want?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4463726

I always think the commercial ones are a bit "thick" so if I design them I try and thin that bit down. One of mine, a Makita to {insert any cheapo Chinese make from yesteryear }. I did the models then my lad makes them look real in Fusion 360:

So this bit where the Makita fits in is pretty universal. This gets done as a solid "model" in AutoCAD:





Then another model to go into whatever old Chinese thing and they're pretty much all very slightly different!





One way is to take the old battery apart, retain the plug in male bit, spring contacts and just screw to a flat topped Makita "break out" adapter.

 

[OnOff]

Still playing with battery adapters!

Bought an 18V Duratool from CPC. Can't go wrong for £23! Confirmed it'll run off a Makita Li-ion battery, all good.

https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03220/18v-multi-function-tool-bare-unit/dp/TL19690

The Makita battery of course won't fit:



Fired up AutoCAD and with a Vernier measured up a test piece to infill where the Duratool battery and battery connector should go.







Grafted the infill piece to the Makita battery adapter design I've already done. A couple of pretty renderings:





Now printing in clay red PLA.



Sods Law the new reel was wider than the holder on the 3D printer so I just made a new one out of a st/st door kick plate and some 20mm pvc conduit & fittings etc:





I'll update in about 8 hours when it's printed!

 

[OnOff]

Epic fail, the ruddy reel label got caught on the new bracket, peeled off and stopped the reel rotating!



Also...I forgot to include a screw hole(s) through the model so I can attach the adapter to the multitool. These 3D printed parts don't really like being drilled afterwards, you sort of drill into the voids and only the outer layer is a thick skin. Sometimes you countersink and it punctures this skin and looks carp. Best to include any holes beforehand as Cura thickens the material up around the hole. The test piece was a damn good friction fit though so I guess a drop of silicone to guarantee it stays there...

I could print at 100% infill to make a more solid item but it's usually not necessary. 

Just started printing again!

 

[OnOff]

Finished, it'll do. Only 10% infill which is down to my boy not me. Seems very lightweight. Took about 6 hours. 







These "ragged" areas were supported. The quality is to my mind a bit carp. Tbh you don't see these when the adapter is fitted but it still bugs me! Be interested to see prints of other people's "supported" faces.





I'll make the copper strip inserts tomorrow hopefully.