Would you believe it, I never picked one up at the time (thought I'd ask about adapater first), now I have been to all three Lidl's in the city and non have any. Damn. Although it wasnt in one of the lcoal ones I saw it Thursday, It was one about an hour away, near to where I'd been working, I'm back there tommorow, last day, so will call in again
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Would you believe it, I never picked one up at the time (thought I'd ask about adapater first), now I have been to all three Lidl's in the city and non have any. Damn. Although it wasnt in one of the lcoal ones I saw it Thursday, It was one about an hour away, near to where I'd been working, I'm back there tommorow, last day, so will call in again
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I'll have a look in the two other stores nearest me for one and pick you one up if you want?
I'm just about to go try if it works on a Makita battery. Bloody @kerching distracted me talking about air guns earlier!
That would kind kind of you, thankyou (If I manage to get one tommorow, then either one of us will have the option of a spare, or someone else on the forum might have a need for one, lol)
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...either it is a dead 'un this heat gun (hence the open box) or it doesn't like Makita batteries. Fully charged battery here. Connected + & - to the tool, no go. Even tried connecting the "3rd wire", T on the tool, TH on the battery.
Hmm...
Hmm...
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@Phoenix, so I got my possibly duff heat gun in Sevenoaks.
Tried today in Gravesend, they had none in. Went to Dartford and got the last two but again boxes had been opened. Everything again looks intact. This time however there was a 4Ah Parkside battery lying loose. I stuck it in each gun in turn and both fired up seemingly OK. Next to try these two new guns on my Makita batteries. I've also borrowed an 18V Bosch battery to try that.
Bloke on the till said it'd be fine to return them if need be.
Tried today in Gravesend, they had none in. Went to Dartford and got the last two but again boxes had been opened. Everything again looks intact. This time however there was a 4Ah Parkside battery lying loose. I stuck it in each gun in turn and both fired up seemingly OK. Next to try these two new guns on my Makita batteries. I've also borrowed an 18V Bosch battery to try that.
Bloke on the till said it'd be fine to return them if need be.
@onoff
I've had a bit better luck, the lidl I went in today had about six of them still on the shelves, ended up buying two of them (not quite sure why.... hoarder tendancies I guess!) both fully sealed
Tempted to try and fire it up off a bench power supply, unfortunaly the 0-30v one is 2A max. and the one thats capable of 25A doesn't go any higher than 15v
I've had a bit better luck, the lidl I went in today had about six of them still on the shelves, ended up buying two of them (not quite sure why.... hoarder tendancies I guess!) both fully sealed
Tempted to try and fire it up off a bench power supply, unfortunaly the 0-30v one is 2A max. and the one thats capable of 25A doesn't go any higher than 15v
Sharpend
"It Just Is"
ok so now I'm intrigued why the urgency for battery heat guns? I know its been a little colder of late but.................
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Erm...no urgency...the usual case of can I rather than should I. Not overly fussed if it doesn't work even, it's the journey not the destination!
Dead handy for use on site, saves lugging one 'o them big yellow batteries about...
I saw them last thursday, never considered that they existed prior to that, decided I needed one, because after needing to shrink heatshrink on a construction site, where 240v is verboten and I think to use a gas torch requires signing the permit in blood at full moon on a cloudless night (or something like that), and just about manageing by putting a 110v plug on my 240v heat gun, it had about just enough gusto to do heatshrink if you werent in a rush. I need a better solution! Also hoping to be able to use it to test heat detectors
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Right then. I've only got 3Ah Makita and Bosch Li-ion batteries here at home.
I've tried taking + & - from both battery makes (Makita & Bosch) to the + & - on the two new heat guns...and they don't work. As I said earlier both of the latest guns ran on a 4Ah Parkside battery in the store.
On the box it says "recommended battery 4Ah", can't see that's the issue though?
A "third pin" issue?
Off to search 'tinterweb!
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Right, I've managed to get it going off the makita batteries. The third pin appears to need to be pulled low through a resistance (I had 10k in there, but not sure what the significance of it is), I tried bridging it without the resistance and didn't get anything. Its clearly for battery protetcion because if you have it pulled low and run it, then disconnect the resister, it'll stop, but won't start again again if you reconnect untill you press the trigger again.
Looking on the net, the makita batteries work in sort of the opposite way, the third pin is held high until the battery voltage has dropped too low then it either goes low or floating, it shouldn't be too difficult to map this across with an NPN transistor and a couple of resisters, I'll have a bit more of a play later on, but I'm guessing if you are able to have a look at printing an adapater that has a small amount of space in the middle? The power connections can be solid rails, but you'd need a point at which you could tap off with a small CSA wire to the space in the middle. If its possible it might be worth while doing it as a separtae adapater, rather than a screwed conversion, as should then be able to be used with any of the parkside tools
Looking on the net, the makita batteries work in sort of the opposite way, the third pin is held high until the battery voltage has dropped too low then it either goes low or floating, it shouldn't be too difficult to map this across with an NPN transistor and a couple of resisters, I'll have a bit more of a play later on, but I'm guessing if you are able to have a look at printing an adapater that has a small amount of space in the middle? The power connections can be solid rails, but you'd need a point at which you could tap off with a small CSA wire to the space in the middle. If its possible it might be worth while doing it as a separtae adapater, rather than a screwed conversion, as should then be able to be used with any of the parkside tools
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Someone over on the mig welding forum I was talking with mentioned "10K"...have a look here at the last couple of pages:
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/new-aldi-ferrex-cordless-tool-range.91150/page-13
Makes sense, while I was out mowing the lawn I did start to wonder if it was just a thermistor to monitor battery temperature, 10K would seem to fall within the 'ok' range. It was largely arbitrary, I just assumed it would just need pulling either up or down and grabbed a round value, I'd normally use 1k pull ups on something running at 5v, but at 18/20v I thought I'd start a bit higher.
I'd like to think the makita battery ok line responds temperature as well as charge state, but but regardless battery state is pretty important to monitor, so interfacing one on to the other feels like the correct thing to do
I'd like to think the makita battery ok line responds temperature as well as charge state, but but regardless battery state is pretty important to monitor, so interfacing one on to the other feels like the correct thing to do
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Makes sense, while I was out mowing the lawn I did start to wonder if it was just a thermistor to monitor battery temperature, 10K would seem to fall within the 'ok' range. It was largely arbitrary, I just assumed it would just need pulling either up or down and grabbed a round value, I'd normally use 1k pull ups on something running at 5v, but at 18/20v I thought I'd start a bit higher.
I'd like to think the makita battery ok line responds temperature as well as charge state, but but regardless battery state is pretty important to monitor, so interfacing one on to the other feels like the correct thing to do
Me being a monkey see, monkey do type...I may not be a smart man etc...
I connect + to + and - to -. Then put a 10k resistor from the centre pin to negative? Any particular wattage resistor?
Does the centre pin in the battery need to be connected to the tool centre pin?
Could easily build a little pocket in for the resistor.
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For testing purposes to bring it on, yes, + to +, - to - then the centre pin through 10k to -, wattage doesn't matter its only a sense line, the one I had on it was 1/4 watt
No, connecting it directly to the battery centre pin will stop it working, I'm going to have a go at knocking something up to connect the two, but for now for testing purposes, leave the battery middle terminal unconnected
Sharpend
"It Just Is"
Can I ask, do you know anything about the old NiCd battery chargers? I have the old 14.4v batteries and the charger just stopped working? Only use the batteries on an old Makita radio in the garden so it’s not major if I can’t get it working.
Any pointers?
Any pointers?
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Open it up and look for the obvious...I had a Makita charger go down, it was just a popped electrolytic capacitor. Replaced it and happy days. I've probably got a spare charger here if you want.
Sharpend
"It Just Is"
Is the popped capacitor obvious? Don’t they like blow up like a balloon when knackered?
