A near miss.

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Retired

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Hi,

I've at last got around to sorting the electrics out on our bungalow; I installed a 6 way Wylex consumer unit over 25 years ago to replace a number of old fuse boxes. This was a simple swap but I never did label up each mcb? When Bron and I moved here there was an old bar type cord activated heater near the bathroom ceiling and I replaced this with a new cord operated fan heater using the original cable connections.

I turned off all the six mcb's and starting with the left hand hand worked through each in turn whilst I did the checks around the bungalow and workshop to see what was powered. This proved very interesting indeed; The bathroom fan heater is connected into the cooker circuit?

I had a few years ago installed a double 13A socket in the hallway beneath my computer desk and as the CU was near connected directly into the spare 16A mcb but now I wanted to sort the hallway sockets because another socket a single in the hallway is on the ring so time to put the computer socket onto the ring but whilst I'm at add another double 13A socket under the desk.

I chopped the hole in the wall and was then ready to sort out the cable and connections; WOW; this makes a change; directly under the floor boards runs the ring cable? This cable disappears out of sight through walls but to be sure I had the power ring I used my digital vernier gauge to measure the cable which read 10.3mm so got everything ready then TURNED ALL THE POWER OFF AT THE CU. I severed the cable leaving plenty length and installed this to the right hand double socket double checking connections and adding the earth sleeving; a short length of new 2.5mm T&E then coupled both sockets and finally I ran new 2.5mm T&E through the wall to the CU at the same point as the original cable; this was so easy I couldn't believe how lucky I had been.

With the end of the new cable swinging in the air I located the 32A mcb for the ring and gave the cables a tug expecting one to pull through the wall freely; well it didn't and as all the cables came through the wall at ceiling height it was difficult to determine which cable was which so I added a junction box clearly marking this; I was now confident at power up all would be as expected until I found the computer was now connected into the lighting circuit? The cable didn't after all go through the wall into the CU but instead disappeared under the workshop ceiling into the front bedroom?

OH dear now I had fun but finally I succeeded and the two double sockets are now safely installed in the power ring; the lighting circuit now boasts an extra junction box. 

What did I do wrong? Well I measured the cable and sure enough it was sized over the outer insulation very much like the new 2.5mm T&E but it never occurred to me that stranded conductors have bigger insulation? I've since checked the original 53 year old cables and it appears the power ring cable measures 11.5mm and the lighting cable measures 10.3mm? I've also now measured new T&E cable to find the 2.5mm is 9.4mm over the outer insulation and the 1.5mm is 8.5mm over the outer insulation.  

ISOLATE ALL THE POWER BEFORE CUTTING INTO CABLES UNLESS THE CABLE IS DEFINITELY KNOWN TO BE ISOLATED. Fortunately I had isolated the lot at the CU; if I had simply tripped the 32A ring circuit mcb it's scary to think what could have happened had I been a total novice then handled the still live cable which proved to be the lighting circuit.

I've bought a KEWTECH LOOPCHECK 107 socket tester which reads good on the power ring; whilst the computer sockets were installed into the lighting circuit I took the advantage to also check the lighting ring and this too reads good so at least I know the basics are good. I've also bought a cable tracer still awaiting its arrival; I'm fully retired so am turning this into a project and will trace all the cables for future references; I'm used to having vintage radio circuit diagrams to work from so an household wiring diagram could prove useful? I'm not a sparky but I've been around electricity for over 55 years and still have some of the kit I used during my vintage radio restoring days; a couple of DMM's and a nice Evershed & Vignoles 1,000V Megger.

I admit I got caught out regarding cable sizes but I didn't get caught out regarding my personal safety because the THE LOT WAS DEAD BEFORE I EVEN TOUCHED IT.  I'm sure every sparky has such stories to tell but this one is mine and was such a near miss worth adding as a warning to those with less experience; I'll never assume anything in future regarding cable size measured over the outer insulation? I hope this is of interest.

Kind regards, Col.

 
even if im certain the cable is dead, i still often cut part into it enough on each side to not short anything if it was live, but enough to get a tester on it to confirm it really is dead

 
This is the one, and only one, time I wave a volt stick near a cable before cutting into it. They WON'T prove dead, but they bloody well will prove live.

 
Hi,

Many thanks Andy and ProDave for your replies and I couldn't agree with you both more.

I was absolutely certain all the circuits in the bungalow were dead before touching; the mains breaker was switched off as were every mcb then I switched on lights and checked the power ring; I never ever trust electricity which I regard as my enemy only too willing to silently attack me; I've worked on many vintage radio chassis whilst they were live sitting on the bench inches away from me; the rule of touching with one hand is a must in such circumstances; I used my Variac to bring an unknown chassis to life and used an isolation transformer plus 100W limiter in the test supply; it must be difficult to say "Whoops" if a live conductor is handled on mains potential.

I hoped my story might do a bit of good because anyone can get caught out and all it takes is one silly mistake for the mistake to be the last ever made. I'm aware many novices browse these forums looking for inspiration and sound advice; my advice is TO MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE ELECTRICS ARE DEAD BEFORE TOUCHING AND IF CAPACITORS ARE INVOLVED THESE MUST BE FULLY DISCHARGED BEFORE HANDLING. I never fully rely on my DMM either because I've had so many test leads go open circuit over the years.

Play safely.

Kind regards, Col.

 
 I never fully rely on my DMM either because I've had so many test leads go open circuit over the years..
The mantra when I was an apprentice was:

Test your tester.

Test for dead.

Test your tester again.

Then work on the circuit.

Personally (and some laugh) I never touch anything that my neon screwdriver has not touched first.

 
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Hi,

Thanks for the tester information ProDave which makes a lot of sense.

Sounds like I need a volt stick because I don't have one; any recommendation as to which one to buy please?

Kind regards, Col.

 
even if im certain the cable is dead, i still often cut part into it enough on each side to not short anything if it was live, but enough to get a tester on it to confirm it really is dead
Me too  , snip a nick from each side to get tester in . 

 Voltstick s can be useful  "Retired"  but don't trust them .    I found them useful in locating a paticular cable in a bunch .... with someone switching it on & off . 

 
Sounds like I need a volt stick because I don't have one; any recommendation as to which one to buy please?


I used to have a few, but they have all got borrowed/broken over the years so I ended up with a random one from a wholesaler. Can't remember the make but it was useless. I picked one up in Screwfix one day, thinking it can't be any worse. It was, it was completely useless. So I found myself a Zagab one (on eBay) as it is the only one that seems to work, and is the same as the one I first had when I was an apprentice.

As others have said, it is a handy addition to the tool kit, useful for finding cables in a bunch or identifying a circuit/switch, but you still need to use proper safe isolation procedures and test properly before working on anything.

 
I like the Fluke too, I use the one with a built in torch, it comes in handy, the other day the old guy at the farm was trying to fix his bathroom light and asked if we had a neon screwdriver, I ended up replacing the light fitting, but got him a voltstick from the wholesalers, whilst there are certain limited uses for a neon driver, in most cases a voltstick is safer. The fluke one is that sensitive you can actually tell which side of a T&E the live is lying on.

 
Hi,

Thanks for your excellent safety advice Evans Electric; I would never ever trust my life to any electronic kit or testers at all however much they cost or sophisticated the kit was; I certainly never trust anything with a circuit board installed either.

Many thanks Blue Duck & Lurch for the Fluke links; much appreciated. I have been browsing eBay and see volt sticks can be bought for as little as £2.45 inc P&P; would I trust one of these? I believe in buying quality kit; buy good and buy once; quality kit usually is the cheapest by far long term. I'll buy the Fluke volt stick after all I'm not one for messing anyone around by asking for advice/information then ignoring it; money is of little use if used to buy a headstone? 

I have a couple of the usual screwdriver type neon testers but never use them for detecting voltage because I don't trust them and they aren't clear enough on their display considering I'm hopelessly colour blind.

I'm working through the bungalow and workshop electrics taking my time; the 6 way Wylex CU is still connected which I installed over 25 years ago but I'm replacing this and have already bought a 16 way British General which is brand new and metal clad conforming to all current legislation; I've also bought an isolator; Wylex 100A DP Mains Switch & Enclosure Supply Isolator - REC2S. A few years ago our electricity supplier installed a new digital meter which is fine; however when the installer departed I found he had left a mains 100A fuse sitting on top of the incoming main fuse unit? This fuse unit I've never touched but being curious I thought surely the fuse hasn't blown so I put my DMM across it and it tested OK? So why was this replaced and this now puzzled me. I do lots of research if I start something new and especially so when it comes to safety. 

I've been researching cable sizes and current capacities because I've installed a 32A socket to power my big welder and saw bench; what a surprise though when I got around to mains tails; I thought these would be standard but our mains tails are 16mm so the installer was good at his job and although I've not seen the fuse now installed I'd guess its an 80A? I've bought new 25mm tails and whilst the new CU is on the bench have taken the opportunity to pre wire these in ensuring I made a proper job.

Anyway I digress but all the above relates to why I'm now buying quite a bit of new electrical kit; KEWTECH Loopcheck 107; head torch and I'll now buy the recommended Fluke volt stick; I already have DMM's but even these I think I'll also upgrade to a decent Fluke DMM; I also have an Evershed & Vignoles Megger so for my household needs I'm pretty much sorted unless you guy's think I need additions to the kit I already have; I'll happily pay money to ensure safety and because of my mechanical engineering training I'm well aware the dangers of guessing and taking chances; if I'm at all uncertain I'll research first. It's highly likely as I settle more into the forum I'll be asking some silly questions but I'd much rather suffer a red face than injury; I was always the one in meetings at work who wasn't scared to ask whilst those around me wanted to ask but were too scared to make a fool of them-self? I once attended a meeting at Brook Motors;  the MD had the floor and he must have talked for a good ten minutes and asked a few questions whilst everyone just nodded their heads; the atmosphere was very tense indeed then a voice spoke up saying "I'll talk to you Ian" and the room erupted in laughter; from then on the meeting actually went well; I supplied the voice. NOVICES PLEASE PLEASE NEVER BE AFRAID TO ASK BECAUSE I'M NOW 69 YEARS YOUNG AND STILL KNOW VERY LITTLE. 

I've been working with electricity for over 50 years but I've joined this forum in order to gain knowledge of up to date tips and techniques; I'll never be a qualified sparky but whatever I do I want it to be safe for me and all those around me; I won't take risks at all. Sorry but I do ramble on.

Kind regards, Col.

 
Trimming links is a useful skill to learn.

http://isswww.co.uk/fluke-1ac-1ac-ii-voltalert


To build on that a bit.....

Its also better for privacy, losts of the rubbish on the end is what they use to trail you around their site, and if you have given your email address to them, they then send you adverts for things they think you might be interested in and so on.

Generally speaking anything after the question mark is passing a variable to a php script, so for example the link lurch trimmed pointed to a page at http://isswww.co.uk/fluke-1ac-1ac-ii-voltalert 

it was also passing the script that generates that page, the data CjwKEAjwsLTJBRCvibaW9bGLtUESJAC4wKw189548YtR4zqp4nhHT5KddepKDsal5uR4RWcaADERwhoC8NLw_wcB and telling it to store it in a varible named gclid.

Now there will be the odd time when a page doesn't work without the contents of the vaiable (for example I could have a page like www.ajbsales.co.uk/showproduct?productcode=564 (made up link btw). In that case, trimming off the bit after the questionmark would leave the site not knowing what product you wanted to look it, but generally if it is a long string of letters and numbers rubbish, then its being used to follow you around the site.

see here:

http://html.net/tutorials/php/lesson10.php

We are all guilty of doing it when we post links quickly, but we probably shouldn't :coat

 
By coincidence Retired the first place I ever saw a pocket size volt stick was at the coal board in 1980 if I recall it was like a big blue cigar and made by a company called Trolex, but that was 37 years ago so I may not be 100% correct as I was at the other side of the conveyor belt at the power station side.

Trimming links is a useful skill to learn.

http://isswww.co.uk/fluke-1ac-1ac-ii-voltalert


To build on that a bit...


Good post gents, every day is a school day. Scoobed.

 
Hi,

You've really started something Phoenix; I joined this forum to learn about electrics now I'm learning about posting website links; WOW though what useful information; thanks so much; I've just bookmarked and will study in more detail later today because I've been totally ignorant of doing anything wrong. I had wondered why the links to the same website kindly supplied by both Blue Duck and Lurch were so different; I'm always keen to learn and I never know where threads will lead to.

Thanks roys; mechanical and electrical engineers have always been worlds apart; as a mechanical engineer in the NCB I obviously knew the sparky's but never understood their work; there was always a big wall dividing us; we would install the heavy kit including mounting the motors and aligning them but then the sparky's took over; we also had separate workshops; in those days sparky's wouldn't even advise how to connect a three pin plug it was all kept so secretive. We used to take the very heavy extension cables down coiled in tubs these cables had huge brass connectors and when the cable was powered it always throbbed when touched; I love big machinery. Installing conveyor was a big part of our life both on top and underground.

Time I bought the volt stick.

Kind regards, Col.

 
By coincidence Retired the first place I ever saw a pocket size volt stick was at the coal board in 1980 if I recall it was like a big blue cigar and made by a company called Trolex, but that was 37 years ago so I may not be 100% correct as I was at the other side of the conveyor belt at the power station side.


Trolex (Stockport) did a lot of work for us and sent us some of their volt sticks, I threw mine in the kiln.

 
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As I always say "the only stupid question is the one you didn't ask", incidentally I've got a brand new, still in the box, Evershed and Vignoles ohm meter.

 
Hi,

Thanks for your advice Blue Duck regarding buying Chineseium stuff; I fall into the odd trap though as I'm finding my way around electrical kit; I've bought a Fluke 1AC volt stick as kindly recommended by members and I believe Fluke kit is highly regarded. I bought a cable tracer which arrived today; it was cheap and is cheap but it will be little used by me in fact whilst I've been awaiting its arrival I made a very simple cable tracer using a 9v buzzer and 9v battery; I only do electrics around home on a need to do basis but even so I want to do the job correctly and I much prefer to rely on good kit than junk.. 

I'm sure lots of cheap kit will be better off thrown into a kiln Tony S; I've a feeling the cable tracer just bought could well qualify?

It's surprising phil d just how many people are scared to ask questions; one favourite saying at work was better to remain quiet and let others think you are a fool rather than to speak and prove you are a fool; I must be number one fool because if I don't know I ask. 

Kind regards, Col.

 
Hi,

Thanks for your advice Blue Duck regarding buying Chineseium stuff; I fall into the odd trap though as I'm finding my way around electrical kit; I've bought a Fluke 1AC volt stick as kindly recommended by members and I believe Fluke kit is highly regarded. I bought a cable tracer which arrived today; it was cheap and is cheap but it will be little used by me in fact whilst I've been awaiting its arrival I made a very simple cable tracer using a 9v buzzer and 9v battery; I only do electrics around home on a need to do basis but even so I want to do the job correctly and I much prefer to rely on good kit than junk.. 

I'm sure lots of cheap kit will be better off thrown into a kiln Tony S; I've a feeling the cable tracer just bought could well qualify?

It's surprising phil d just how many people are scared to ask questions; one favourite saying at work was better to remain quiet and let others think you are a fool rather than to speak and prove you are a fool; I must be number one fool because if I don't know I ask. 

Kind regards, Col.
May I recommend one of these little beauties, only for use on dead circuits but excellent, it has a buzzer and light at one end, or if your using it over a distance you can use the other probe at the far end, this flashes either red or green depending on the polarity relative to the master unit. I bought one and we found a few problems on a job with it, in fact my mate was so impressed he bought one. It's about the size of a 20's fag packet so easy to carry, incidentally Col, CPC can be a good source for a lot of things at very reasonable prices, and they do mail order.

 http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/ten01049/continuity-tester/dp/IN05723

 
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