Advice on Lighting Circuit

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Christicles

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Hello,

I've signed up to the forum to get some advice. I've recently purchase a house with my partner and we are currently doing some decorating/renovating before we move in. The kitchen/dining area in the house is one big open plan space, possibly use to be 2 separate rooms as there are 2 different lighting circuits. One for the Kitchen light and one for the Dining room area. The switch for the dining room is located behind a double door leading from the living room which isn't really a place that makes sense with the layout of the space. To correct this I've decided to move the switch to a space on the opposite wall beside the entrance to a conservatory. Additionally we want to add two way switching into the mix so we can control the kitchen lights from new spot in the dining room and the dining room lights from the switch in the kitchen. I also want to tie the conservatory lights into the downstairs lighting circuit as it is currently on a fused switch, fed from a ring that was labelled as "Fridge" in the CU. This switch is on the backside of the new dining room location.

I have been trying to work out the best way to run the cables for the new circuits and have came up with two options seen below. Some of the CPC's are missing from the current circuit diagrams, but they are there.

KitchenDining1 is using the existing ceiling rose locations with a Wago junction box to house the connections for the feed, lights and switch lines and mainly uses 3 core and earth for all the switch connections.

KitchenDining2 again removes the ceiling roses and puts the connections in wago boxes to maintain the feed to the rest of the downstairs lighting, taking a feed down to the kitchen switch then out to the dining room switch, as well as adding the 3 core and earth for 2 Way switching.

What would be the best option to go with?
 

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Richard-the-ninth

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What would be the best option to go with?

Before you move in have an "Inspection" carried out to find out the condition of the house wiring. (You should have done this before you purchased the house)
An even better idea would be to go through each room, decide what will go where, what you want moving (Ceiling light not where the dining table is going, switch in wrong place, no internet connection point for TV, no socket for TV in bedroom, no socket for where main TV will go, not enough sockets in kitchen, no smoke alarms, etc)
You have a blank canvass after you have decided where everything is to go, get the whole house rewired, new consumers unit with RCBO's (Combination of too much current and earth leakage device, better than what is probably there) and no need for an inspection as it will all be brand new and certified. It will be cheaper and better in the long run.
 

Christicles

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Before you move in have an "Inspection" carried out to find out the condition of the house wiring. (You should have done this before you purchased the house)
Had a RICS survey carried out before we bought the house which had no issues flagged. Had a spark in after getting the keys to fit some smoke alarms, run some data cables and did a full board upgrade with RCBO's as the original was 30yr old. Upgrade included an inspection and test cert.

An even better idea would be to go through each room, decide what will go where, what you want moving (Ceiling light not where the dining table is going, switch in wrong place, no internet connection point for TV, no socket for TV in bedroom, no socket for where main TV will go, not enough sockets in kitchen, no smoke alarms, etc)
We've made the decision to move the switch and also install downlights throughout the kitchen/dining area replacing the ceiling roses in both locations, but only after the spark had been in.
 

Bruspark

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Baffled why you paid for a new board and a tested /certified installation before doing a load of DIY alterations that you presumably cannot test ..
 

Christicles

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Baffled why you paid for a new board and a tested /certified installation before doing a load of DIY alterations that you presumably cannot test ..
Because we hadn't decided to do it at the time we had the spark in. Was only something we decided we wanted after he had been and gone.
 

Holty

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Had a RICS survey carried out before we bought the house which had no issues flagged. Had a spark in after getting the keys to fit some smoke alarms, run some data cables and did a full board upgrade with RCBO's as the original was 30yr old. Upgrade included an inspection and test cert.


We've made the decision to move the switch and also install downlights throughout the kitchen/dining area replacing the ceiling roses in both locations, but only after the spark had been in.
Hi after scrolling through this thread as other people have suggested why haven’t you got the spark back who did the original works?
If your at finished stage plaster painted and finished stage I would suggest looking and quinetic switching which you can wire from a permanent feed to a reciver to then feed the new spots and change the switches to varilight/mk or bg grid and put a quinetic switch with what you have there already,
If your not at finished stage it’s simple run 3 cores from the switches exsisting and create two way or 2 way intermediates
 

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