Any Tv Gurus Out There?

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Not my field, so thought it wise to ask

Please see attached drawing......

Brother in law has run in a load of TV cables

All terminated correctly, no shorts, 10/10 continuity

First drawing shows original setup...all worked fine

Now due to major changes he has the set up in drawing 2

It is not feasible to run any additional cables.

New amp keeps showing short circuit on the LED display when kitchen TV is connected via new amp...new amp os in effect fed from an output of Amp A and we lose TV signal on all other TVs

Is it because the Amp A is having a moody and needs changing for some form of non powered splitter?

Or am. I blowing bubbles

All help greatly appreciatedimage.jpg

 
Is it ONLY the kitchen tv that causes the problem?

Some tv's do present a DC short at the aerial socket. I don't know if you have a tv wall plate socket at the kitchen, but try using one that has a dc blocking capacitor built in. They stock them at the corner shop.

 
It appears to be everything that was originally ok goes pants when the new amp is connected.

If I only touch the connection onto the old amp it appears to be ok BUT when i push it fully home the signal goes.

My thoughts were that it was trying to amplify an already "amplified" signal, so it was in effect getting "too good a signal" or is that bollox?

As i have no way to measure the signal quality/strength it is just a case of swap, check, swap, check again, revert to original back to basics, .....and repeat

Just confused...

However I am passing the corner shop tomorrow so i can call in for bits if required

 
Why 2 Amps? maybe there is some overboost going on? Would try just a normal splitter first? you could also get a signal finder from you local shop http://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/ten01017/digital-tv-signal-strength-meter/dp/IN06212?in_merch=Featured%20Products

When I moved in to my home many moons ago I massively overspecced the aerial as I wanted to record telly and didnt want a **** picture unfortunately the encoding on the recorder was poopty :(

One of the aerials came down in the wind for the downstairs flat and I've hooked them up to my aerial there are now 5 points fed by a splitter and no complaints thus far :)

 
I did not realise that signal detectors were so cheap....sorted

And i will get the other stuff PD mentioned as well!

Have to do a job in Warrington first thing and was calling in on the way back to get another of their 10W rechageable LED mini flood lights. FRICKING brilliant. Got one last week, 5 hour battery life. Used it today at back of some comms racks absolutely fantastic, so I want another AND first wife wants one for Horse Box as well. So that is HER Xmas Pressie AND brother in Laws TVs sorted in one fail swoop AND all at the Corner Shop. Andy would be pleased

Just....wondering if they have any Biros left?...probably not

 
Is also say that the signal being boosted to the next signal booster may be too strong for the tv and second booster to cope I'd suggest changing the first signal booster to a none powers splitter and then go to each powered booster after that

 
Well.......

Scrapped first amplifier A

Fitted a splitter

Still,getting crap,signal at new amp AND a "short" light ...it is a Philex amp.

Fitted the galvanic thingy at Amp C input

Short light went

Picture came back on kitchen Tv

Fitted bedroom TV.....cracking picture BUT the short light is back again on the amp!!....BUT all TVs are working. WTF?

My thoughts now are that there is some back feed outputted from the TV which is seen as a "short" by the amp BUT is not actually a "short"

Problem is the B in Law has fitted a lot himself over the years so I could have dodgy connections all over....could even be another hidden amplifier somewhere

Just....swapping one thing at a time

 
It really is a case of unplug everything, then plug things in one at a time and see what works. See what tv or what cable being plugged in gives the short circuit light.

I have a little 5" self contained battery powered tv that's great for jobs like this, plug it into the distribution system in different places to see what the signal is like.

If one particular tv (or cable) brings on the short circuit light, try measuring with a multi meter what the resistance across the coax is?

Mind you if everything is working and it's just the SC light that's the problem, I would probably just ignore it.

Philex are not the best. I had one and it succumbed to the plague of modern electronics, duff electrolytic capacitors. But it was a simple enough repair.

 
The first short light that came on caused TVs to not work

Second time it came on...did not affect anything

I will leave it for a few days to,see if anything else falls,off

Almost certainly would not be an issue if there was no short light!

Suppose i could always blow the short light....or put a bit of black paint on it!

 
Disconnect it?

fred drift.

I was reading a discussion about air bag faults on cars. You can't just disconnect the warning lamp as the MOT man expects to see the warning lights come on then go off when you start the car.  Some enterprising person on ebay sells a cheap timer module to make a lamp do just that.

 
I was thinking of making things to make ABS lights look right years ago. Trouble is, when someone has a crash, someone gets killed, and then the vehicle inspectors go to work. Whoever fitted, made, sold, and used the thing, could ALL expect to be charged with manslaughter.

I cancelled that idea!!!!

john..

 
old thread...

but as for the ABS, if its fitted it must be working. other option is to simply remove it, then its not an MOT fail
Are you sure you are allowed to do that?

I had an "issue" with seat belts in my Subaru. when I bought it, the rear centre seat belt (that pulls down out of the roof) had been chewed by the previous owners dog. that would have been an MOT fail. So on the basis that I never carry a passenger in that seat, I removed it.

That passed two MOT's as the tester took the view if it's not there it can't be tested, just don't carry a passenger in that seat.

He then died. Next MOT tester said you can only do that if you change the vehicle registration document to say only 4 seats not 5. He insited on a belt, but wasn't fussy what, so now it has a free second hand lap belt and it's passed every year with that.

 
I'm sure I've said this before but....

I worked with a guy who had a Chevette.. it had a couple of switch blanks missing and he fitted a hazard warning switch in one of the holes (this was before hazard warning lights were a standard item).... It failed the MOT on the fact that it must work if it's fitted.....

Oh how we laughed :slap

 
The vehicle must be tested the way it is presented for test, if you have no seats, they CANNOT fail it for no belts.. As for the ABS, that is right, you can remove it completely, but if it is there, it must work, including the light. They can only fail a vehicle for set reasons, UNLESS, in the opinion of the tester whatever the "fault" is, will interfere with brakes or steering, so say you turned up sitting on a bucket, it would fail, as even if you DID have a belt, sitting on a bucket would affect your use of the steering, so it would fail, even thought the testers manual does not actually mention buckets...

john..

 
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