Bathroom - Shock!

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Mark Gowans

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Hi All,

We had an electrical fault in the bathroom that I discovered having got a small shock from our towel radiator. We've located the cause of the problem, but I'm concerned the bathroom still isn't safe, so will get a qualified electrician in to resolve. However, as I'm going to have to pick someone out the yellow pages and to satisfy my own curiosity, I'd be interested in your thoughts as to the correct way to resolve this. 

The current situation:

I first discovered there was a fault touching the towel radiator. A tingling sensation - like pins and needles. Ceramic tiled floor - rubber shoes. Following on from this, I got my voltage pen out and discovered that the radiator, shower head, shower controls and bathroom taps were all showing live. 

The towel radiator is plumbed into the central heating, but also has an electric element, so my initial assumption was that there was a problem with the electric element and a bad earth. I turned the fuse spur to the towel raditor off and checked with a multi-meter the resistance from the towel rail to the earth on the saver socket next to the towel rail (both connected to the 'upstairs socket' ring). I put my multi-meter into 'audiable' mode to check that there was a connection - but the multimeter made an odd beeping I've not heard before and still read "1". Even with the fuse spur turned off, I was still getting the electric shock. Eventually, through a process of elimination I found the cause of the problem - a wall light in the bathroom where the securing screw had pierced the live cable. With the lights on, everything was live, lights off - everything OK again. To make things safer in the short term, I've disconnected the offending light and through reading the various forums etc have the following thoughts and questions:

1. I'm pretty certain that the lighting circuit doesn't have an earth connected back to the CU. I'm assuming therefore that the earth which is connected to the light fitting in the bathroom must somewhere in the house be connected back to the CH/HW pipework. That's a little odd though as all the pipework in the bathroom (both HW and CH) is in plastic. I couldn't think of any other way a live/earth fault on the lighting circuit was lighting up the HW/CH plumbing. Anything obvious I may have missed?

2. So now I've read up on earth-bonding in the bathroom and discovered (perhaps unsurprisingly given the age of the house) we have none in the bathroom at all. Should I expect a qualified electrician to recommend running new earth cables to the taps, shower controls etc?

3. From what I've read on earth bonding in bathrooms, this shouldn't be connected back to the CU? How does that work with a plumbed electric towel rail? Presumably that must be connected back to the CU? 

4. The sockets in the house (and bathroom circuit) are on the RCD protected side of the CU, whereas the lighting is not. Am I likely correct in assuming that nothing tripped with the live/earth fault because:

4a. Lighting circuit MCB wouldn't trip because even with earth fault there was sufficiently low current draw given the only way that the CH/HW system was live would be through the water contained in it?
4b. Main RCD didn't trip because the draw was on the non-protected lighting circuit rather than on the protected ring?

5. In addition to the earth bonding, the only way to make this setup truly safe would be to rewire the lighing ring to have a proper earth and be RCD protected? Had this been the case then I presume a lighting RCD would have tripped since rather than earthing through the CH/HW, the light would have earthed straight back to the CU?

Anything else I should be thinking of / discussing with an electrician on this?

Many thanks for your guidance.

 

 
I would suggest you get a local electrician to sort out the lighting fault you have identified and also perform an EICR (electrical installation condition report)  It will take a few hours but then you will have a good idea of the state of the wiring in the house and what needs doing to make it safe.

As to which electrician, if at all possible get a recommendation from friends or relatives.  If you use the likes of Face Book, then ask there for a recommended competent electrician.  Although i don't use FB myself, a surprising number of my new customers say I was recommended by someone on FB.

Depending on when the house was wired, the requirements for earth bonding in bathrooms have changed over the years. The important thing is each circuit has a sound functional and tested earth

Regarding light circuits, in the past some lighting circuits were wired without an earth.  It's okay to continue using these as long as all light fittings and switches are class 2, i.e double insulated.  That means no metal light switches and generatlly no metal light fittings, though you can get some metal light fittings certified as class 2.

To get rcd protection on all circuits it might be possible, depending on what consumer unit you have, to change the mcb's on the non protected side for rcbo's.

 
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Hi All,

We had an electrical fault in the bathroom that I discovered having got a small shock from our towel radiator. We've located the cause of the problem, but I'm concerned the bathroom still isn't safe, so will get a qualified electrician in to resolve. However, as I'm going to have to pick someone out the yellow pages and to satisfy my own curiosity, I'd be interested in your thoughts as to the correct way to resolve this. 

The current situation:

I first discovered there was a fault touching the towel radiator. A tingling sensation - like pins and needles. Ceramic tiled floor - rubber shoes. Following on from this, I got my voltage pen out and discovered that the radiator, shower head, shower controls and bathroom taps were all showing live. 

The towel radiator is plumbed into the central heating, but also has an electric element, so my initial assumption was that there was a problem with the electric element and a bad earth. I turned the fuse spur to the towel raditor off and checked with a multi-meter the resistance from the towel rail to the earth on the saver socket next to the towel rail (both connected to the 'upstairs socket' ring). I put my multi-meter into 'audiable' mode to check that there was a connection - but the multimeter made an odd beeping I've not heard before and still read "1". Even with the fuse spur turned off, I was still getting the electric shock. Eventually, through a process of elimination I found the cause of the problem - a wall light in the bathroom where the securing screw had pierced the live cable. With the lights on, everything was live, lights off - everything OK again. To make things safer in the short term, I've disconnected the offending light and through reading the various forums etc have the following thoughts and questions:

1. I'm pretty certain that the lighting circuit doesn't have an earth connected back to the CU. I'm assuming therefore that the earth which is connected to the light fitting in the bathroom must somewhere in the house be connected back to the CH/HW pipework. That's a little odd though as all the pipework in the bathroom (both HW and CH) is in plastic. I couldn't think of any other way a live/earth fault on the lighting circuit was lighting up the HW/CH plumbing. Anything obvious I may have missed?

2. So now I've read up on earth-bonding in the bathroom and discovered (perhaps unsurprisingly given the age of the house) we have none in the bathroom at all. Should I expect a qualified electrician to recommend running new earth cables to the taps, shower controls etc?

3. From what I've read on earth bonding in bathrooms, this shouldn't be connected back to the CU? How does that work with a plumbed electric towel rail? Presumably that must be connected back to the CU? 

4. The sockets in the house (and bathroom circuit) are on the RCD protected side of the CU, whereas the lighting is not. Am I likely correct in assuming that nothing tripped with the live/earth fault because:

4a. Lighting circuit MCB wouldn't trip because even with earth fault there was sufficiently low current draw given the only way that the CH/HW system was live would be through the water contained in it?

4b. Main RCD didn't trip because the draw was on the non-protected lighting circuit rather than on the protected ring?

5. In addition to the earth bonding, the only way to make this setup truly safe would be to rewire the lighing ring to have a proper earth and be RCD protected? Had this been the case then I presume a lighting RCD would have tripped since rather than earthing through the CH/HW, the light would have earthed straight back to the CU?

Anything else I should be thinking of / discussing with an electrician on this?

Many thanks for your guidance.

What makes you think you have located the cause of the problem?

 
Not wanting to be melodramatic but can I say that NO ONE should be using the bathroom ............NO ONE !!    in my opinion.

Unless I missed it I didn't see where you identified the fault

Edit :     Ah I skimmed your opening post & missed the faulty wall light.

ANyway , get a sparky in .

 
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I can't edit my post above but YOU SHOULD get somebody in to check this out.

I was recently called to something very similar - a newly refitted bathroom, and the home owner getting shocks in the bathroom.

Barry the bathroom fitter had replaced a single light with 3 downlights - no continuity from the earth back to the fuseboard present.

Barry the bathroom fitter had removed the pull cord and fitted a switch in the outside wall - no continuity rom the earth back to the fuseboard present

Barry the bathroom fitter had brought "his" electrician and they hadn't found anything and thought it was static.

I discovered that :

Barry the bathroom fitter had put a screw for the metal frame of the shower in contact with the switched live so when the lights were on the frame was at 230 v - good job that the resident, in her 70's hadn't grabbed the shower frame and metal radiator at the same time.

 
If you get a shock from anything then you almost invariably have more than one fault. You clearly quite handy with a tester but in this case you have a very dangerous situation and you really need to get an experienced sparky to come and identify all the problems and do the remedial work.

 
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My friend had a similar probem.

They were getting a shock from all earthed items in the house.

It turned out the Neutral conductor on the overhead supply had corroded away. As it was TNCS it was making everything earthed live. As the supply is before the RCD of the consumer unit the RCD was not disconnecting.

He called out the DNO who immidiatly turned the supply off, and then corrected the problem.

 
few years ago got a call to a property - house converted into downstairs & upstairs flats. downstairs getting shocks from metalwork, upstairs (being refurb'd) had no apparent issues, but turn off their CU then downstairs pipework becomes dead... probably the neighbours houses live too, common metallic gas pipe... dead short L-E no RCD...

 
Thanks for the comments all. I have booked a couple of electricians in to come and quote for investigative works.

I've also read up now on the bonding requirements for the 17th edition! But this has created more confusion in my mind..

If I've understood correctly, as long as the circuits are RCD protected and there is earth bonding on the supply pipes somewhere, then the system has the potential to be broadly up to spec.

Indeed the water main does have a 10mm yellow/green cable by the CU also connecting the gas supply and the casing of the electric riser. The offending bathroom towel rail is wired to the upstairs ring main which in turn is RCD protected. As it's also plumbed in, I would hope that the manufacturer of the rail (it's new) has ensured that the wiring feeding the internal element also includes an earth to the metal casing. Doesn't this mean that to all intents and purposes, the towel rail from which I was getting a shock was earth bonded and RCD protected? (Unless there's a bigger problem with the RCD ring main / earth - but this was previously checked/certified).

Following my train of thought, I'm suspecting the likely correct resolution will involve uprating the lighting circuit so it is RCD protected. But somewhere hidden in a wall or beneath a floor there must be a connection from the current lighting earth to the earth of the ring main. This is going to cause all sorts of fun and games for RCD protecting the lighting circuit isnt it?

Another quandry.. how do electric/plumbed towel rails ever work? A fault could surely cause currently to flow back to earth through the HW pipe bonding (not through the CU) or back through the RCD protected circuit? Is the theory that both routes to earth would be paths of equal resistance hence enough current would flow back through the CU to trip the RCD? ..or should I stop thinking about this having far exceeded by GCSE electrics? :)

Thanks again for your thoughts and guidance.

 
Just refer back to post #2 and get the electrician in.

So you have several electricians visiting to "quote" for investigating.  Well I would never "quote" for that as it's simply not a thing you can do for a fixed price.  You just don't know how long it will take to find the fault(s)

All you can do is get recommendations of who is good and competent, and enquire what their hourly rate is.  But someone with a cheap hourly rate who is useless at fault finding and takes twice as long to find the problem(s) is not going to be cheaper.

 
Sounds to me like a Neutral fault that i mentioned.   Which would not disconnect the RCD.

do you have an overhead supply?

If you call DNO they will attend within hours (24 hours  day) for free and will be able to establish if it is there fault.

ooops just fully read your post and its the light switch causing the fault.

 
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But there are RCDs fitted. How could there possibly be a dangerous fault? RCDs are the only thing that can make a domestic installation safe. (Tongue in cheek alert)

Sounds to me like a Neutral fault that i mentioned.   Which would not disconnect the RCD.

do you have an overhead supply?

If you call DNO they will attend within hours (24 hours  day) for free and will be able to establish if it is there fault.

ooops just fully read your post and its the light switch causing the fault.
I don't think an overhead supply will make a difference to anything?

 
But there are RCDs fitted. How could there possibly be a dangerous fault? RCDs are the only thing that can make a domestic installation safe. (Tongue in cheek alert)

I don't think an overhead supply will make a difference to anything?
i didnt realise he found the fault was the light switch, as i quickly read the post. my error for not reading it correctly.

Overhead supply is more likely to have corrosion/disconnected neutral conductor. I have found this a couple of times on over head supplys. 

 
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i didnt realise he found the fault was the light switch, as i quickly read the post. my error for not reading it correctly.

Overhead supply is more likely to have corrosion/disconnected neutral conductor. I have found this a couple of times on over head supplys.
K but that is not an issue if it is also TT no?

 
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