Coverting outside light from CFL to LED

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David T

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Hi all!

Long time lurker, 1st time poster!

I have two outside wall lights (Ansell Quad) that I would like to convert from CFL to LED (G24q-2 socket). I know I have to bypass/remove the florescent ballast and I was looking for advice/confirmation on the best way forward.

The ballast is an Osram QT-ECO 1x18-21/220-240 S. (live and neutral IN and 2 pairs of cables to the lampholder OUT)

I was planning on using a couple of Wago 222 3-way connector blocks and placing one of the pairs of cables (originally from the ballast) and the mains live into one block and the other pair of cables plus the maIns neutral into another block. I was then going to place boths connectors blocks into a Wagobox inside the light enclosure.

Does this sound about right or is there another better way to rewire and bypass the ballast?

Also is it okay to re-use the existing wiring in the enclosure in this way?

Any help/advice will be gratefully recieved!

Thanks,

David

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I don't know about the availability of led lamps with that base but would guess they are rare and expensive.

I would be more inclined to change the lampholder to a bayonet or a ES so a common (cheap) lamp can be used. Also simplifies wiring; put the two supply wires in the holder and remove and discard the rest. 

 
Hi Geoff,

Many thanks for your reply. Never thought of changing the lampholder to a different one! Unfortunately I've already bought the replacement led lamps. Not too hard to find but at £10 each,  you aren't wrong about the cost!

Mind you the existing CFLs are 9 years old so if I can get 10 years from the leds I'll be happy enough! The lights are manually switched so they aren't coming off and on a lot.

 
Hopefully the led lamps will have instructions as to which two of the four pins are to be connected, (?)   Or perhaps they only have two pins .

Connect those two from the lampholder directly to the mains input terminal block, removing and discarding the old wiring and ballast. Take the redundant old wires out of the lampholder, (they are probably push in terminals, but a bit of "wiggling" and rotating will usually remove them.)  If you can't get them out then terminate them separately into wagos, in case they just could become  live.

 
Thanks again Geoff.

The led lamps have four pins and no instructions!

So, are you saying the lampholder doesn't need all four wires, then?

 
Oh! Time to put the brakes on because I'm making assumptions and that's dangerous. 

In my opinion such items shouldn't be sold without instructions. Where did you get them?

I didn't know that you could even get G24 led conversions,  but having learned from you that you can I was expecting that they were designed to take 230 mains,direct, which would only need two pins.

That's probably right, but which two out of four I am no wiser than you.  Hang on a while and perhaps someone else on the forum has met these and can help.

 
Thanks Hefferl.

Philips subsequently issued a compatibility list (and still do periodically) highlighting the ballasts that are suitable/not suitable. Unfortunately the Osram ballast is listed as insuitable.

Tempted to take Geoff's advice and swap out the lampholder for something a bit more common!

Didn't realise the G24 format was so unusual!

Cheers!

 
Wago the wires taking the ballast out and crack-on. I do this a lot for various fittings when converting to LED. I'm guessing pin configuration stays the same, and I've not found an LED lamp that is polarity conscious yet on conversion gear. 

 
Thanks binky,

Yeah I sort of assumed the polarity wasn't that important when the ballast and the lampholder don't mention it.

Wagos it is!

Cheers!

David.

Thanks guys for all your help!

 
Wago the wires taking the ballast out and crack-on. I do this a lot for various fittings when converting to LED. I'm guessing pin configuration stays the same, and I've not found an LED lamp that is polarity conscious yet on conversion gear. 
It's an electronic ballast.

For clarity, (Mine as well as the OP), would you connect the wires presently 1&2 together and to live, and 3&4 together and to neutral?

 

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