Cutting chipboard flooring

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Traveller

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I realise this is a well discussed issue but I should still appreciate some advice on my particular job.

I have to cut an access slot in an 18mm chipboard floor layed in 1988 when the house was built. It appears to use T&G boards but I don't know whether they are glued or not.

Question 1 - are they likely to be glued dating from 1988?.

The boards (upstairs) were layed before a couple of hollow timber frame walls were built on top. The hole I want to cut is to install new electrical light cables (ceiling lights in kitchen below) and would be a slot about 15cm wide and about 3 metres in length crossing 7 joists (40 cm spacing). I'c leeked ar cutting circular access hatched but don't have the cutter, so all-in-all it looks like an expensive approach.

The hole would extend into a bedroom and also across the landing area. One the landing, one edge of the hole would run parllel to an upstairs timber-framed wall maybe just a few centimeters out from the wall. The other edge would more or less hit the join between adjacent floor panels.  I have read loads of posts about using a circular saw set to cut less than 18mm etc etc, and that is the method I am inclined to use. Where the hole extends through the bedroom doorway on to the landing, the wooden step can be easily removed.

Question 2 - How can I tell whether the boards are glued? If they are glued, presumable all I can do is cut along the join?

Question 3 - If I cut along the join between boards, I am destroying the tongue of one board - I don't know which on at this stage. Does in matter?

Question 4 - When I replace the cut section of board, do I need to support the joins between every joist given that the T&G joint has been destroyed?

The boards are nailed down, so I expect there will be a problem lifting the nails. I don't want to hammer them through because this is likely to damage the ceiling below.

Any comments or advice would be appreciated.

 
Beware of cables or pipes just underneath and touching the boards.

Sometimes it is easier to do from below, cutting small holes in the ceiling that can be patched up.  Or cut a series of holes from above say 100mm diameter straddling each joist with a hole saw.

 
Thing is, especially with crappy modern floors is that they don’t go back down too well. 

I normally suggest the customer arranges a plasterer comes to re-skim the ceiling below ......

 
Your worst nightmare awaits you .  I was asked to wire a shower , went to take a look ,   noted the  8ft chipboard flooring panels   with walls laid on top .   Noted the million pound carpets , two million pound furniture , imagined hitting the heating pipes with a cutter & flooding the place .

Refused to do it outright , get someone else , in the nicest possible way .     Massive area upstairs would need a carpet company to lift and remove carpets for a start.   Carpets at £1m  per sq mtr. 

 
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To answer your questions, it’s very possible that the floor will be glued at the T&G but also onto joists. 
generally glued floors don’t squeak

wherever you cut fit a piece of 3”x2” along underside of the fixed piece, glue first, (screw through fixed board) then glue cut piece back on to new timber support then screw that to it when you are finished. 

 
A couple of methods I use





Gave up cutting out large chunks of chipboard flooring that never goes back down properly many years ago

 
OK, very useful experience - thankyou. I think I will take your advice and cut the holes with a board cutter as suggested. Which is the best board cutter for a one-off job like mine? I have a powerful half-inch Bosch power drill - will that do the job OK?

 
For a one off job the solid board cutter is the cheaper option and also more portable. Occasionally I have used two holes a few inches apart to give better working access. With a bit of thought you can get a battery drill or impact driver through the hole to drill joists if needed

Having used a few of the solid board cutters available there is little to choose between them apart from cost so it's all down to google

 
Yes, it is a DIY job. \\\\thanks to all the advice, I'm going the board cutter route and will fill with the ready made hatches - a bit pricey but obviously convenient. Thank you to all for excellent help.

 
Yes, it is a DIY job. \\\\thanks to all the advice, I'm going the board cutter route and will fill with the ready made hatches - a bit pricey but obviously convenient. Thank you to all for excellent help.




Does your lighting circuit have RCD protection? If not it needs it (18th Edition changes)

 
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