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Do-It-Yourself (DIY) Question & Answer Forum
Downlighters
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<blockquote data-quote="binky" data-source="post: 12083" data-attributes="member: 490"><p>Its nothing to do with being fire rated - that's about stopping fires spreading through the downlighters into ceilings etc above, which still takes over 30 mins anyway. What you need is an F symbol in a triangle which means the fitting is suitable upto a stated wattage rating for fitment to a flammable surface. I think the symbols are in the new regs book somewhere, but can't be ****d to go out to the van and get it. On quite a few downlighters you see two symbols eg 35w for flammable surface, or 50w for non flammable surface. So save yourself a small fortune, use CFLs if you wish, (you can actually touch these when at operating temperature) but don't buy fire-rated downlights (or hoods) unless you are breaking into the fire compartment of an adjoining building or flat.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="binky, post: 12083, member: 490"] Its nothing to do with being fire rated - that's about stopping fires spreading through the downlighters into ceilings etc above, which still takes over 30 mins anyway. What you need is an F symbol in a triangle which means the fitting is suitable upto a stated wattage rating for fitment to a flammable surface. I think the symbols are in the new regs book somewhere, but can't be ****d to go out to the van and get it. On quite a few downlighters you see two symbols eg 35w for flammable surface, or 50w for non flammable surface. So save yourself a small fortune, use CFLs if you wish, (you can actually touch these when at operating temperature) but don't buy fire-rated downlights (or hoods) unless you are breaking into the fire compartment of an adjoining building or flat. [/QUOTE]
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