Kitchen Rewire - and part P questions

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momist

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Hi everyone.

I'm hoping for some nice gentle advice. I am commanded to refurbish our kitchen, and this entails a new cooker and cooker hood on a different wall and all new cupboards. The cooker is a dual fuel, 13A for the warming oven and gas for everything else including the main oven. The house is a 1960s build, with a new kitchen fitted some 33 years ago and some other additional wiring that was added before we bought it. The kitchen furniture has sockets on the hardboard backs with T&E drooped between - which will be corrected.

I have spent all today tracing the main ring circuit, in order to try to plan the new wiring layout of the kitchen, and have found that, mainly, it is all in one big ring which wanders erratically up and down stairs, and which has been extended for an additional bedroom and a conservatory. The "other" 30 Amp breaker is on a radial circuit which mysteriously serves an odd socket here and there, the bathroom shaver socket (via isolation transformer) and the garage. I can't identify where most of these wires are run.

All the wiring is run in the plaster under galvanised top hat, or amongst the joists as usual. Now come the problems:

1. The existing service is from an old Wylex fuse box retro fitted with mini trips. 2 off 30A for the ring and radial. 1 off 10A for the lighting. There is also the 10mm feed to the electric shower, on its own 40A MCB.

2. The lighting circuit is wired in singles, and has no CPC.

3. In the kitchen there is a single socket in the middle of the wall above where the hob will be, needing a tiled splash back. IT MUST be moved.

4. The original wiring is the PVC sheathed, 7 strand, 6mm equivalent that was used in the 60's. The later power stuff is all to current spec, except that everything is red and black.

See the attached photos. Note, today I also added green/yellow sleeving to _every_ CPC at every socket. This photo was "as found", and shows a ring with a spur off.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/218346/Kitchen/DSC03211.JPG

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/218346/Kitchen/DSC03203.JPG

Questions:

a) Can I employ a sparky to just re-wire the kitchen, or will he not be able to certify because its all on one big single ring?

B) If I can split the ring in two in an attempt to separate out the kitchen, is it OK to leave the conservatory and a socket in another room on the kitchen ring? All other rooms would be left in a second ring, and there'd still be a radial to the garage.

c) A new CU is a "very good idea"

 
first question,

where are you? lancashire is a big place.

yes, you may well be able to possibly just rewire the kitchen and then do the rest as it becomes viable.

nothing is impossible.

you will be able to get a new CU to fit your available space, 10way RCBO possibly, its all about cost.

you will deffo need some tests carried out on you existing before anything could be considered,

new bonds would more than likely be required, ie, earth cables to your gas and stop tap.

there are a lot of scenarios here and to try and answer all of them on paper may be plucking straws.

 
This must be one of the best first posts ever.I have to salute you. It looks like you know your stuff, if so check out local electricians in your area that are competant and registered with a scheme provider. Let us know how you get on and good luck

 
a) Can I employ a sparky to just re-wire the kitchen, or will he not be able to certify because its all on one big single ring?Best option would be to re-wire the kitchen totally on its own circuit and provide its on Consumer Unit with RCD protection

B) If I can split the ring in two in an attempt to separate out the kitchen, is it OK to leave the conservatory and a socket in another room on the kitchen ring? All other rooms would be left in a second ring, and there'd still be a radial to the garage.

If you split the ring to create 2 radials, these would need to be fused at 20amps, having your kitchen appliances on a 20amp circuit breaker is not good design and it will trip when many appliances are used

c) A new CU is a "very good idea"
 
sellers, nowhere in the regs does it state that grommets must be fitted,

they are only one means,

you could argue that plastering a cable so it cant move is also an acceptable form.

Im not so sure if mounting a normal board vertical is acceptable or not, but I wont argue as I cant quote.

 
Personally whenever I rewire a kitchen I pretty much always wire it as it's own circuit and remove all previous socket circuits. This can either be wired back to it's own CU or to a replacement CU, whichever fits the clients budget (assuming the current CU is not a viable option).. also the bonds to water and gas would probably need updating...

As for fitting a replacment cu in the space you have, you are probably going to be limited to a RCBO board, but if you can do away with that shelf above then you will have more options.

re. the lighting circuit, if it has no earth (CPC) then you should really look at getting it rewired... using RCD protection and class II fittings only is not the best solution

 
Welcome to the forum...

From what you have said and posted, a lot of what you request is probably feasible..

BUT..

personally I would suggest a full periodic inspection to get a true picture of the condition of the existing wiring..

It may still be in pretty good shape..

but then again it may not...

things such as Insulation resistance tests and the resistance continuity of the ring will give a good idea if the cable is on its way out or still has a few years left in it..

and if you have any dodgy connection around the ring..

This information would help with evaluating if its good/possible/feasible to split your ring in two!

 
Sadly I have to agree with Steptoe, Not in a bad way :) , if cables are imobalised by the plaster etc and no danger occurs from contact between the metal backbox then grommets can be excused from duty in this instance.

 
sellers, nowhere in the regs does it state that grommets must be fitted,they are only one means,

you could argue that plastering a cable so it cant move is also an acceptable form.

Im not so sure if mounting a normal board vertical is acceptable or not, but I wont argue as I cant quote.
An mcb or rcd, works both horizontal and vertical, it is acceptable. Personally I wouldn't install a backbox without grommets and code 4 where grommets aren't in place, but each to own mate.

:)

 
Welcome to the forum...From what you have said and posted, a lot of what you request is probably feasible..

BUT..

personally I would suggest a full periodic inspection to get a true picture of the condition of the existing wiring..

It may still be in pretty good shape..

but then again it may not...

things such as Insulation resistance tests and the resistance continuity of the ring will give a good idea if the cable is on its way out or still has a few years left in it..

and if you have any dodgy connection around the ring..

This information would help with evaluating if its good/possible/feasible to split your ring in two!
Oooh, thats gonna hurt! :coat

 
An mcb or rcd, works both horizontal and vertical, it is acceptable. Personally I wouldn't install a backbox without grommets and code 4 where grommets aren't in place, but each to own mate. :)
I'm talking about the actual board,

labelling etc will all have to be bespoke,

including those on each individual MCB/RCBO and the main switch as to on and off,

Im pretty sure its impressed on most of the kit I use, so may not be viable.

 
I'm talking about the actual board,labelling etc will all have to be bespoke,

including those on each individual MCB/RCBO and the main switch as to on and off,

Im pretty sure its impressed on most of the kit I use, so may not be viable.
Most 3phase boards carry the mcbs/rcbo's horizontally, It's not an issue there, not sure on the main switch. Anyway wandering miles off topic.

 
Thanks for the thoughts Tom

>If you split the ring to create 2 radials, these would need to be fused at 20amps, having your kitchen

>appliances on a 20amp circuit breaker is not good design and it will trip when many appliances are

>used

Thanks, what I really meant was to split the ring at a convenient point and bring both ends back to the CU to make into two rings. There happens to be a JB under the stair above the usual cupboard, from where I can easily get down the wall into the floor and back to the meter cupboard. If I split the ring there, it would be dead easy, and the same piece of floor needs raising to get the new earth bonding to the water main anyway. The difficulty then is that the conservatory, and one socket in a room with 3, would end up on the kitchen ring.

---------- Post Auto-Merged at 19:27 ---------- Previous post was made at 19:19 ----------

Welcome to the forum...
Thanks

things such as Insulation resistance tests and the resistance continuity of the ring will give a good idea if the cable is on its way out or still has a few years left in it..
My Fluke says continuity and insulation resistance are good. I could borrow a megger to do a more aggressive test, maybe I should.

---------- Post Auto-Merged at 19:30 ---------- Previous post was made at 19:27 ----------

Sadly I have to agree with Steptoe, Not in a bad way :) , if cables are imobalised by the plaster etc and no danger occurs from contact between the metal backbox then grommets can be excused from duty in this instance.
If either the back box or the cable could move, I'd see the point of a grommet. Otherwise, I can see why I rarely see any, if you see what I mean.

 
sellers, nowhere in the regs does it state that grommets must be fitted,they are only one means,you could argue that plastering a cable so it cant move is also an acceptable form.

Im not so sure if mounting a normal board vertical is acceptable or not, but I wont argue as I cant quote.
Does that not come under 'erection methods' ?

 
Momist,

Without any doubt, you need your house rewired, those 2 x 30A MCBs are literary supplying the whole house for ''All'' it's power needs. But i think you already know this, Right?? For a start your going to need a dedicated supply for the new Oven/Hob etc...

There are CU enclosures that will suit most situations horizontally and vertically. What you ''Don't'' need, is a separate CU in the kitchen just supplying the Kitchen!!! From what i can see from your photo, you have no bonding cables from either the water main or from the main gas supply, these bonds will be required no matter what course of action you decide to take...

To my mind if a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing well. If that means biting the bullet and getting your electrical installation up-graded and made safe to the latest regulations, before you start on the proposed new kitchen install, ...Then so be it!!!

 
Momist,Without any doubt, you need your house rewired,
I do quite agree. My question was though, do I need to replace the old-standard stranded wires, or can I re-use them?

For a start your going to need a dedicated supply for the new Oven/Hob etc...
If you re-read my post, I don't need a dedicated supply. The oven and hob are gas (that alien fuel that carries so much more energy at less cost), and only a small warming oven and the ignition system and clock needs a standard socket for its 13A plug top. This will happily connect into whatever ring. I would have it on a dedicated ring just for the kitchen, if doing a full re-wire. However, I have a cunning plan which saves a lot of re-wiring, if I can get away with sharing the kitchen ring with the conservatory, and one socket in an adjacent room, _and_ can re-use the stranded cables (suitably tested for insulation and continuity!). Hence my question, for which I which have not yet seen an answer.

Does anyone know if this is OK?

 
yes its fine to have the odd socket on with the kitchen ring, just have to make sure its labeled in the consumer unit and on the test schedule.

 
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