mete tails in cavity wall

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Building Regulations 2000, Approved Document C, 2004 Edition, Section 5: Walls, paragraph 5.13 b Cavity external walls, requires, amongst other things, that a cavity external wall is at least 50 mm wide, and the cavity is to be bridged only by wall ties or by cavity trays provided to prevent moisture being carried to the inner leaf.A cavity is intended to provide a gap to prevent water penetration. Cables could bridge this protection if they touch both the inner and outer leaves of a cavity wall. Furthermore, the cables could provide a route for water to drain directly into accessories, with potentially dangerous results.
could always add a drip loop...

 
i usually use PVC cable duct its thirty odd mm, 25mm tails go up there fine (no earth as usually TT) this duct is handy for shoving up the cavity nicely aswell as it is so rigid.

 
be a bit hard to drain into the fuse board as im rasing it 2 metres!!!! lol but i suppose you could put a drip loop before it goes into the meter box? is that what you mean?

 
take the tails into the bottom of the meter box ideally, no problem then

 
how do you get the cable duct in the wall?? how many bricks do you need to take out for that?!

 
how do you get the cable duct in the wall?? how many bricks do you need to take out for that?!
might be possibly to unscrew the meter box and pull forward enough to get it.... and drill a big enough hole, on an angle at the other end

or knock a brick or 2 out

 
also as you now know i dont do domestic work very often, can anyone recommend a good electric power shower? does anything match the mira sport max these days?

cheers

 
in a bungalow get the apprentice in the loft and get him to shove to duct down

or

pull the meter box out the wall and shove the duct up (supply not present at time)

 
i must say ive never come accross this forum before im loving the quick accurate replies, much appreciated guys,
you do realise its all a trap!!!!!! ; \

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hi guys just thinking about my previous questions, i was also wondering the following,

perhaps instead of moving the fuseboard up in the kitchen to ceiling level (and feeding tha tails in the cavity) that I could put some sort of 100a isolator / switchfuse in the metre box (located outside) and run an SWA from that into the garage and put the fuseboard up in there?

Has anyone ever done this? is it normal? I suppose a rotary isolator maybe the best idea as i could padlock it to stop someone openning the metre box and turning the house supply off!!

any suggestions appreciated. Suppose 25mm tails from meter to isolator (10cm run) then a 25mm /35mm? to the garage about 5/10 metres away depending on where to located in garage.

 
Tu dno don't like you putting to much stuff in meter boxes. Ones I have done have used a mem 80a switchfuse. I terminated cable in 25mm through box and then into switchfuse.

Batty

 
Has anyone ever done this? is it normal? I suppose a rotary isolator maybe the best idea as i could padlock it to stop someone openning the metre box and turning the house supply off!!
rotary isolators can only be locked off

 
oh right then i guess putting any kind of switch fuse outside the house is a bit daft if someone can just come along and turn it off!?

only an idea if no im back to the old idea of the cavity wall raising the board to the kitchen ceiling.

 
Tu should not be a problem if switch is in box not many people carry a meter box key. Even if someone did switch it off it could always be switched back on. I would imagine a lot of meter boxes have switches in them.

Batty

 
Why do you think that someone may switch the power off, just do it . Use the MEM 100a switch that the meter people use only you will have to mount a steel adaptable box on top of it so you can gland off your SWA.

If you go for the tails in the cavity, again just do it, there are thousands like it. Put each tail in a light gauge PVC flex-con if you are worried , then if the cavity is filled it wont react with the insulation.

No way would you need 35mm tails IMHO

Deke

 
Why do you think that someone may switch the power off, just do it . Use the MEM 100a switch that the meter people use only you will have to mount a steel adaptable box on top of it so you can gland off your SWA.If you go for the tails in the cavity, again just do it, there are thousands like it. Put each tail in a light gauge PVC flex-con if you are worried , then if the cavity is filled it wont react with the insulation.

No way would you need 35mm tails IMHO

Deke
You tell em Sandra!

:D

 
Sorry if my last post reads like I have right cob on, wasn't supposed to. I do feel however that we now have so many rules and regulations imposed on us , that even the simplest job seems to have a load of rules stopping you from actually getting it done. Lets face it ,you can't even put a lightbulb in now , it would have to be an energy saver,as long as you have checked that nobody has epilepsy as the flicker causes fits and when its dead you must dispose of it in lead lined box in the middle of the Pacific Ocean after the mecury has been extracted safely and disposed of in a zinc lined box in the middle of the Atlantic.

When did life start becoming so complicated ? By 'ek I could hit someone with me 'andbag sometimes. :) :p

Sandra

 
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