Need Help Wiring A Boiler

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Wiksey

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A plumber has fitted a Grant Vortex Pro External Combi and then run away without fitting a controller to it.

The manual asks for a "single channel 230V with voltage free output contacts"

The boiler isolation plug has 5 connectors (CH, HW, E, N, L).

So to have a Central Heating controller connected I'm expecting to connect a switched live to the CH connector on the isolation plug

The Controller that I'm trying to connect is a Salus EP101 which according to the instruction manual has the following terminals:

E - Earth

N - Neutral

L - Live

1 - Normally Closed (N/C)

2 - No Connection

3 - Normally Open (N/C)

4 - Volt Free COM

The Salus website also refers to the connectors 3 & 4 as Switched Output & Common Connection respectively

http://www.salus-tech.com/products/digital-programmers-and-timers/ep101/

Am I right in thinking that I just need to connect 3 on the controller to CH on the boiler and that the other connectors are for if I wanted to connect an external thermostat? or do I need to connect more than this?

 
4 core flex to boiler. L3&N from boiler plug to L&N of salus. Link L&4 on salus. conenct 3 on salus to L1 on boiler plug. remove any previous link between L1 & L3

you will also need to link L2 and L3 (perm live) on boiler plug if you dont have any external HW controls

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Boiler - Programmer

E - E

N - N

L - L

CH - 3

You will also need to link L & 4 at the programmer and L & HW at the boiler plug.

 
This is an outside oil fired combination boiler.

You can't use a 4 core flex, 5 core minimum. It has to have the permanent L to operate the frost stat so it doesn't freeze, as well as the switched L for CH and switched L for hot water, and of course N and E

The manual is missleading saying it a volt free contact. If controlling it from an external programmer as you are proposing, then a conventional 2 channel programmer with switched L output is what you want.  If you read the manual in more detail, you would find it is possible to knock out a square hole in the boilers control panel, and fit an internal programmer, and THAT is the one that must have volt free contacts if you fit it.
 

 
Cheers guys, very much appreciated. I'll stop looking at wiring diagrams now and getting confused!

ProDave - thanks for the clarification on where the volt free bit comes into the whole thing, I'd totally missed that in my confusion.

 
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