new and old colours

[sparktobe]

do i have to sleeve old red and black cables in the switch and light fitting to brown and blue if i add an extra light to an old fitting?

also what is the correct method or material to use? ?:|

 

[a1]

do i have to sleeve old red and black cables in the switch and light fitting to brown and blue if i add an extra light to an old fitting?also what is the correct method or material to use? ?:|

No Mate, You sleeve the black - Red. at both. And if you are adding new colours to the old, then you need to add the warning sticker to the CU.

You know: "WARNING: This installation has wiring colours to two versions of BS 7671 . Great care should be taken before undertaking extension, alteration or repair that all conductors are correctly identified".

 

[a1]

PS. Welcome to the forum.

 

[sparktobe]

thanks for the speedy reply.

just to clarify the switch cables are double red+earth and a single red+earth so i sleeving is not required?

if i alter the wiring in my bathroom would it be advisable to run a new t+e to the cu and terminate on the rcd side of the cu. the cu is a memera 2000. the rcd is 30ma and there appears to be to 2 free spaces to the left of my ring main. the upgrade in question is a power shower. if i do decide to install a new shower can i use 1.5mm to feed the pump.

 

[Robojin]

thanks for the speedy reply.just to clarify the switch cables are double red+earth and a single red+earth so i sleeving is not required?

if i alter the wiring in my bathroom would it be advisable to run a new t+e to the cu and terminate on the rcd side of the cu. the cu is a memera 2000. the rcd is 30ma and there appears to be to 2 free spaces to the left of my ring main. the upgrade in question is a power shower. if i do decide to install a new shower can i use 1.5mm to feed the pump.

Welcome!

Best practice/preference is to wire a spur of a ring in 2.5mm (even though the 7671 diagram shows 1.5mm), and in preference use a switched fuse outlet as a local point of isolation (a must if more than one socket outlet is required), also the placement of sockets/outlets in a bathroom less than 3m from Zone 0 is not permitted (behind bath panels that are screwed in place may be an exception, others will likely comment on this)

Apologies but not knowing you background, remember work in bathrooms is notifiable, bathrooms circuits need to be covered by RCD

 

[sparktobe]

here comes the crunch. bite the bullet and all that

i have been installing alarms and cctv as the last three years and believe i am a competent person.

wiring the shower as a spur from the sockets gives my shower rcd protection

but what about the rest of the bathroom or are you suggesting taking a 2.5 t+e to a switched fcu in the roof space and the wiring the bath room from the fcu.?

spur from a socket is handy as i have a single socket in the landing on the outer side of the wall where the proposed shower unit will be mounted.

the house was built 11 or 12 years ago did bathroom zoning exsit as this socket was less than 3mtrs from the bath.

if i also fit a low voltage light what would you recommend i do in order to fit the cabling for the fan that allready exists in the ceiling rose. the light my good lady has bought has only a small 3amp connector block for the feed cable

does any body know if part p is applied in northern ireland

thanks for your time

 

[green-hornet]

All circuits going into a bathroom will require rcd protection.

It would be easier to use the socket on the landing and fit a fused spur to run the light, fan, and shower pump.

Its more cost effective and complies with all the current regulations, with an added advantage of totally isolating all power into the bathroom, for maintenance and repairs.

 

[sparktobe]

thanks very much green hornet.

what is your thoughts on junction boxes. traditional type or the new fangled push connector type?

 

[Robojin]

here comes the crunch. bite the bullet and all that i have been installing alarms and cctv as the last three years and believe i am a competent person.

wiring the shower as a spur from the sockets gives my shower rcd protection

but what about the rest of the bathroom or are you suggesting taking a 2.5 t+e to a switched fcu in the roof space and the wiring the bath room from the fcu.?

spur from a socket is handy as i have a single socket in the landing on the outer side of the wall where the proposed shower unit will be mounted.

the house was built 11 or 12 years ago did bathroom zoning exsit as this socket was less than 3mtrs from the bath.

if i also fit a low voltage light what would you recommend i do in order to fit the cabling for the fan that allready exists in the ceiling rose. the light my good lady has bought has only a small 3amp connector block for the feed cable

does any body know if part p is applied in northern ireland

thanks for your time

Part P applies to England & Wales, you will need to find the equivalent regs from your local building control, irrespective of what was allowed on previous regs you must comply to current version for your territory

the 3m rule relates to sockets, towel rails use FSO's and must not be within 600mm of Zone 0

I was about to expand but GH has done the deed

 

[green-hornet]

Traditional junction boxes are ok is you have access, if not then you must use the new push fit non screw type which require no maintenance.

I personnally more often than not, now use push fit everywhere, its faster and looks neater.

 

[Robojin]

thanks very much green hornet.what is your thoughts on junction boxes. traditional type or the new fangled push connector type?

Trade of between cost and convenience, but it's no longer acceptable to wrap terminal blocks etc in insulting tape, preference is to go for zero maintenance push types e.g.

http://www.wagobox.com/

some use these for firelighters

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLCT100C.html

GH beat me to it !!

 

[sparktobe]

many thanks to you also robijin

do you have a preference in junction box types.

 

[sparktobe]

yes robijin, gh is quick off the mark

once again a big thank you to the pair of ye.Applaud Smiley

 

[batty]

Hello Toby welcome to the forum. I use the wagos more than standard jb's a quicker no maintanance joint.

Batty

 

[sparktobe]

thanks batty

i looked at the wago link provided by robijin, looks like a good system.

"aint it just nice to be nice"

 

[batty]

thanks batty i looked at the wago link provided by robijin, looks like a good system.

"aint it just nice to be nice"

I think so.

 

[wozz]

i use the hager/ashley JBs all the time, solid connection and good strain relief. no problems with them as yet. Glad they are more readily avaliable then they used to be.

 

[steptoe]

sparktobe, YES, part P applies in GODs own land as well.

welcome to the forum, Im a bircey by the way.

 

[sparktobe]

yo ho steptoe! how the hell are ye?

what is a bircey? :|

 

[sparktobe]

happy mayday.

anybody want to offer an opinion on these drawings for my proposed bathroom?

i intend to use wago jbs and lever connectors. i think they look as though they would make a better connection than the push in type. having said that i dont know for sure what the best combination is, never used them see.