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dan.

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if you fitted a new CU does the rest of the wiring have be upto currents regs?

wondering because im going to use my house for my assesment and dont want any nasty surprises. :^O ive upgraded all the equipotential earthing to 10mm and the main earth to 16mm. i wanted to separate the upstairs lights/sockets but they are all on the same circuit, the sockets are 4mm radials so theyll have to stay that way. the kitchen has its own ring tho:p

 
if you fitted a new CU does the rest of the wiring have be upto currents regs?wondering because im going to use my house for my assesment and dont want any nasty surprises. :^O ive upgraded all the equipotential earthing to 10mm and the main earth to 16mm. i wanted to separate the upstairs lights/sockets but they are all on the same circuit, the sockets are 4mm radials so theyll have to stay that way. the kitchen has its own ring tho:p
No it doesn't, but..

You can't fail an EIC.

If your fitting a 17th CU, then evenly distribute the circuits...

:)

 
only power in the bathroom is a sauna type shower enclosure that is run from a 13amp socket under the shower.the wire feeding it is 6mm that was there from an electric shower ive put that on a 32 mcb. the plug is only accesable with a tool:D not sure if i need anysupplementary bonding in the bathroom the shower is class 2 .ive used a 17th split load board and put the kitchen ring32, house sockets16,shower32,garage16 and cooker40 on one side 80amp rcd and lights for house6 outside lights6 alarm6 and immersion16 on the 63amp rcd

whats an eic?

 
only power in the bathroom is a sauna type shower enclosure that is run from a 13amp socket under the shower.the wire feeding it is 6mm that was there from an electric shower ive put that on a 32 mcb. the plug is only accesable with a tool:D not sure if i need anysupplementary bonding in the bathroom the shower is class 2 .ive used a 17th split load board and put the kitchen ring32, house sockets16,shower32,garage16 and cooker40 on one side 80amp rcd and lights for house6 outside lights6 alarm6 and immersion16 on the 63amp rcdwhats an eic?
:eek:

Electrical Installation Certificate..

 
add em all up it comes to 136amps on the 80 amp side but in reality is only about 50-60 amps max. you reckon i should move some over to the other side

EVERYTHING is on an rcd:D

 
add em all up it comes to 136amps on the 80 amp side but in reality is only about 50-60 amps max. you reckon i should move some over to the other side
Your one step ahead of me, Dan.. :D

 
all circuits i have done are as above before the new cu they were split between 4 fuses!!!!

 
if you fitted a new CU does the rest of the wiring have be upto currents regs?wondering because im going to use my house for my assesment and dont want any nasty surprises. :^O ive upgraded all the equipotential earthing to 10mm and the main earth to 16mm. i wanted to separate the upstairs lights/sockets but they are all on the same circuit, the sockets are 4mm radials so theyll have to stay that way. the kitchen has its own ring tho:p
Hi dan...

just back to your opening question m8..

you may find this thread helpful..

http://www.talk.electricianforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=404

I think is covers some of your questions re existing wiring but only change CU?

;)

 
so i thought;) turns out someone had wired 1 half of the kitchen ring to the rest of the house and put the other 2 in a connection block in the old consumer unit surprised it worked at all.

 
Hello Dan

My thoughts are I wouldn't put all lighting on one RCD side, Split between two RCD's Also if possible I would put cooker and immersion through RCBO'S to prevent nusaince tripping.

batty

 
hi batty cheers. all the house lights are wired in 1 radial the other light circuit is an outside light which never gets used. immersion is disconnected, have a combi boiler, kept the wiring incase i want some power in the loft at a later date:8} cooker i will probably put on its own if it gives me any greif.

now i need to sort out the paper work side:( ive got some fluke certs i got free with my tester but they seem really long winded,what info do you need to put on there apart from the test readings youve done?

 
When I do consumer unit changes On the electrical installation cert I fill in page 1, page 2, page 3 most boxes are n/a, page 4 fill in circ description, overcurrent devices size of conductors and earth fault loop for circuit and rcd times. The rest is not needed as you did not install wiring. But as you are doing it for an assesment I assume part P you could fill the rest in but in the extent covered by this certificate put new consumer unit and on description of work on page 4 put installed new consumer unit that way you are not taking responsibility for the existing wiring you are connecting into consumer unit.

batty

 
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