Night Storage Heaters

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binky

retired and loving it!
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Do any of you guys hang around to late at night to do Zs test. Personally I mark it as limitation to testing having done all other tests up to meter, and then from consumer head to meter, or does anyone know a cunning method of getting power on to do Zs.

 
Sometimes there is a little switch in the older meters you can press, but you have to snip a seal or two......or the E7 DB is usually right next to the a normal DD, then just connect a wire from an mcb on this DB to the E7 DB busbar or mcb.

 
The method i find best is not to energise, but test for your r1 + r2 and calculate your Zs. As you have the Ze and r1 + r2 reading you can easily calculate Zs

 
The method i find best is not to energise, but test for your r1 + r2 and calculate your Zs. As you have the Ze and r1 + r2 reading you can easily calculate Zs
I would concur with the above method as the easiest.

As by calculation or measurement are both perfectly acceptable.

for either option you still have to open up the connection at storage heater

e.g. DP switch or FCU whatever is fitted. to put your meter leads on.

Read you Ze at main property CU...

this will have negligible difference to the true Ze at storage heater CU..

(assuming both are mounted within a couple of feet of each other?)

just strap your phase & CPC at the storage heater CU.

then read R1+R2 at each heater.

add them up jobs done!

Also considering that most final circuits to the heaters are generally reasonably short runs...

it is very rare that you are anywhere near max Zs values so a slight discrepancy of say 0.01ohm don't make no difference! :)

But saying that....

most of the work I do on night storage heaters is ....

Taking them out! :D :D:^O:^O

 
The method i find best is not to energise, but test for your r1 + r2 and calculate your Zs. As you have the Ze and r1 + r2 reading you can easily calculate Zs
That would be my method on the (very) odd occasion I`ve put `em in!

As Spec. says; I`m usually removing. :(

 
Every one seems to be removing them, im working on a contract INSTALLING them.

 
Every one seems to be removing them, im working on a contract INSTALLING them.
Good bl***y job! :)

otherwise....

the rest of us takin em out..

would be out of work:^O:^O:^O

Keep on installing M8!!!!!

as long as your been paid?

money is money is money

no mater what your installing!]:)B)

 
Its endless work though; hi-rise flats are the killer :eek: Still come next month could be working else where.

 
Morning Binky.

You have an email fom me, Mate.

 
If your repairing or installing them like i do, you need to energies the db to test them

 
Without energizing them how can you guarantee a neutral connection

unless you do a Rn test

 
Without energizing them how can you guarantee a neutral connectionunless you do a Rn test
Quite. Quicker & usually easier than messing about with energising E7 boards m8.

So when you repair things you dont bother to test them then?
Don`t be like that. :( Think........... :eek: The answers are all there my friend. One only has to look, in order to discover. :)

 
My friend is fitting some to his new 1 bed flat. He's bought 3 storage heaters second hand. Would they need their own circuit? I'm guessing theres 12000w so presume they'd draw 50amps?

Please can someone confirm my questions so I can advise my friend.

Thanks

 
My friend is fitting some to his new 1 bed flat. He's bought 3 storage heaters second hand. Would they need their own circuit? I'm guessing theres 12000w so presume they'd draw 50amps? Please can someone confirm my questions so I can advise my friend.

Thanks
12KW is quite a bit for a 1 bed flat...

ideally, each should have their own radial

 
12KW is quite a bit for a 1 bed flat...ideally, each should have their own radial
I agree.

I do know the practice in the 70's was to put two heaters on one radial, and two on another, normally front bedrooms and back bedrooms.

However 12 kw is an awfully big load for a 1 bed flat!

 

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