Options for surface mount sockets in units

[sphannaby]

I'm looking at the built in appliances going into my kitchen and thinking about sockets to my built in fridge/freezer and microwave.

I'm thinking best option is to have surface mount sockets in the units directly to the side of each appliance.

My question is what are people preferred method wiring to a surface mount socket? 

Is it normally just leaving enough length on pair of cable for ring main coming directly out of plastered wall, then into the back of kitchen units direct into some trunking and on to the socket for termination?  If so what do you normally do to protect from the plasterer slicing through the cables with his trowell?

Any other methods appreciated.

 

[Andy™]

if its a new kitchen, common to chase the wires in that are above the bench then run all other wiring surface below the units. unlikely to be plastered that low anyway

 

[Manator]

The method you describe is the probably most often utilised. However I have always found that if you terminate into a galv stop end conduit box you can come out of that with flexible conduit direct into the sockets. Or if using a standard galv back box you could do the same but use a metal blank plate with a 20mm or 25mm hole cut in the front and then into the flexi conduit.

 

[sphannaby]

if its a new kitchen, common to chase the wires in that are above the bench then run all other wiring surface below the units. unlikely to be plastered that low anyway

Its a total new build (extension) so the block work is being dot and dabbed.  Cables can go anywhere as I'm at first fix stage now so I'm just sitting down now with the Mrs to agree socket positions and just trying to come up with the best solutions for all options.

The method you describe is the probably most often utilised. However I have always found that if you terminate into a galv stop end conduit box you can come out of that with flexible conduit direct into the sockets. Or if using a standard galv back box you could do the same but use a metal blank plate with a 20mm or 25mm hole cut in the front and then into the flexi conduit.

Like the sound of that mate, sounds a bit neater than my description

 

[Manator]

It also has the advantage that if the outlets do not correctly match up, nothing is lost other than a longer length of flexi conduit required.

 

[Evans Electric]

Various standard methods Sphannaby.

New build , I presume you have layout drawing for the kitchen units , so just leave tails sticking out where you need them .    If lucky , your plasterer will half a brain and should not damage the cables , if does  charge him for puttiing it right .

Drill a hole in the back of your unit and pass the twin/E s through and into a moulded pattress.   You can drill a 2" hole to pass any moulded plug tops through from the white goods. 

Or , leave a leg of the ring where  each end of the units will be then just drop cable in the service duct behind the units .

Or fit some plastic trunking before units go in , with tails in the appropriate places .

 

[Rob_the_rich]

You can drill a 2" hole to pass any moulded plug tops through from the white goods. 

Instead of cutting a big hole for mice to get in, drill a 10mm hole, then put the jigsaw blade in and cut the circle at an angle so that the piece that comes out is wedge shaped, pull the plug and cord through and replace the wedge shaped piece, the cord going where the hole was drilled.

 

[Evans Electric]

Blimey Rob thats the business !

 

[Rob_the_rich]

Blimey Rob thats the business !

:santa-reindeer-dancing-1:

Since is it dot and dab pboard, I assume all cables are just clipped to blockwork and the tails coiled up inside 25mm galv back boxes, holes cut in pboard to suit the boxes, for the sockets above the counter. Then whole wall just skimmed. Might be best to spur it off the nearest socket and just use 1 cable (reduces chance of damage by 50%). You could bring the spurred cable down to floor level and leave a large loop under a floorboard, Then run it where you want after plastering under the cabinets.

 

[Adrian]

Instead of cutting a big hole for mice to get in, drill a 10mm hole, then put the jigsaw blade in and cut the circle at an angle so that the piece that comes out is wedge shaped, pull the plug and cord through and replace the wedge shaped piece, the cord going where the hole was drilled.

Just cut plug off

 

[sphannaby]

Since is it dot and dab pboard, I assume all cables are just clipped to blockwork and the tails coiled up inside 25mm galv back boxes, holes cut in pboard to suit the boxes, for the sockets above the counter. Then whole wall just skimmed. Might be best to spur it off the nearest socket and just use 1 cable (reduces chance of damage by 50%). You could bring the spurred cable down to floor level and leave a large loop under a floorboard, Then run it where you want after plastering under the cabinets.

Yes you are correct with regards to Pboard and galv boxes, only thing is it is a screed floor with UFH so not possible to put a loop of cable under floorboard.

Think I'll be happy going with Manators idea.  I'll leave adequate length tails coming through the dot and dab lining board and have them in a length of flexi-conduit.  Less chance of plasterer damaging cables during skim if I leave them in the flexi and if it is covered in lettuced afetr skim I can just replace flexi with a new length before it gets glanded into a blank plate on 2nd fix.

I'm possibly over thinking this but hopefully that should get me a good end result!

Just cut plug off

I thought this invalidates warranty for a lot of manufacturers though?

 

[M107]

Just cut plug off

I thought this invalidates warranty for a lot of manufacturers though?

It does.

I had a job where the customer has fitted his own kitchen but changed the back boards of the base units with fire retardant mdf; I had to put in dry-lining boxes so  used much the same idea as Rob mentioned...

2x 10mm holes one at each bottom corner, jig saw out the hole for box keeping 10mm holes just  below the lower level drop appliance leads through 10mm holes, lining box & T/E  in & terminate, plug in appliances.