Pool Heater Extension Cable

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monkeyphobia

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Hi Guys,

I've just bought a 3kw pool heater for my intex pool, but the pool is at the bottom of the garden. I tried a standard 13A extension, but this got very hot, to the point of melting the socket on the wall.

On reading the instruction manual it does say not to use an extension lead, but then a 2m cable isn't much use in anyones garden I wouldn't have thought. I need it to run about 8-10m from the sockets in the shed.

Any ideas?

 
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Hi Guys,I've just bought a 3kw pool heater for my intex pool, but the pool is at the bottom of the garden. I tried a standard 13A extension, but this got very hot, to the point of melting the socket on the wall.

On reading the instruction manual it does say not to use an extension lead, but then a 2m cable isn't much use in anyones garden I wouldn't have thought. I need it to run about 8-10m from the sockets in the shed.

Any ideas?
Hello Monkey..

Well there are a whole bunch of things to consider here.. :(

(point 1 would of course be always read the manufactures instructions guidance before using an appliance...

especially outdoor equipment.... equipment in use with water... and any high power equipment e.g.3Kw.)

But that bit aside

The total length of the supply run..

from fuse box to heater... (not shed socket) needs consideration.

the size of the various cables & their current carrying capacity..

the existing load in use at the shed..

The capacity and volt drop of the circuit would need calculating to work out what size of cable is needed to run the length you require!

How far is the pool from the shed..

How far is the shed from the main house...

how far is it the the fuse box from the where the shed supply cable enters the main building? ?:|

 

sparkss

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how bout using a 2.5mm artic cable (like which is used camping) with the 16a commando plug and socket on the pool heater and cable . you have then also got the advantage of having a IP44 plug/socket pool end

 
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Good morning peoples, friends romans & citizens..... :D

Just to add one more point of caution to this thread..

When plugging in higher power rating appliances... e.g. 2.5kW .. 3.0kW using a standard 13a plug top.

Even if all of the fuse ratings, volt drop, current capacities are all spot on with the correct cable terminated securely throughout...

There can be overheating problems when using an old socket outlet / plug top. and/or extension lead :(

Typical real world scenario....

After doing a bit of redecorating in the house new socket tops fitted.

Joe public thinks I will put one of the left over second hand sockets in my garage/shed..

Extension lead may have been kept hanging up in the garage...

The garage/shed is susceptible to more damp and dust than in the house..

All of the electrical contacts on plug pins and internal bits of the socket can get a little bit more oxidisation &

general grime on them than in a house environment... 'external influences ?'..

Also socket used less frequently so cleaning action on contacts from plugging items in and out is less than in other areas of the property.

So when using a higher power appliance, overheating can occur at the plug top to socket outlet joint,

due to poor electrical connection with older dirty contacts!. :(

A second hand socket in a garage.. on a ring main..

working a second-hand tumble drier..

looked like this from the front

But opened up

Close up

back of socket

It can be seen that the live pin-to socket joint, has at some point got 'very hot!':O:O

melted the insulated part of the live pin on plug,

AND melted the socket outlet...!!! :_| Not good!!! :|

this was just purely a 'bad joint' problem...

no circuit overload..

within 15m of the CU..

ring main..

moulded plug top...

Additional note re: Extension Leads:....

These sort of appliance can be used through a correctly rated fully unwound extension lead. (correct size flex, e.g. 16a rated flex.)

Often the guidance not to use an extension lead is because many people have a nice long drum type lead from the local DIY store...

which would need to be fully unwound to prevent overheating of the lead with a 2.8+kW load.

(and most people only unwind partially to the length needed).

 

Mr Sworld

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Just to add one more point of caution to this thread..When plugging in higher power rating appliances... e.g. 2.5kW .. 3.0kW using a standard 13a plug top.
I've always been taught that 2.5mm cable should be in a FCU or a c/form. It's too big to fit a 13A plugtop. :(

 
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I've always been taught that 2.5mm cable should be in a FCU or a c/form. It's too big to fit a 13A plug top. :(
Come come now Mr S...

you been on the pop or that special ice cream of yours..

13a plug with 13a or 16a rated flex gives you your 3k max..

ye ode traditional 3-bar electric fire... 1k each bar..

bout as high as you can go on a standard plug though! :| ; \ ; \

 

Mr Sworld

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I always fail a 2.5mm flex in a 13A plugtop when PAT testing. It's not that the plug can't take the current it just the physical size of the cable doesn't allow the plug to close properly and there is too much chance of the the wires being pinched between the two half's.

It's not a reg but the IEE COP for PAT testing suggests it's good practice.

 
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I always fail a 2.5mm flex in a 13A plugtop when PAT testing. It's not that the plug can't take the current it just the physical size of the cable doesn't allow the plug to close properly and there is too much chance of the the wires being pinched between the two half's.It's not a reg but the IEE COP for PAT testing suggests it's good practice.
Yar a hard man Mr Sworld! :(

you'll be tellin me next I cant parallel two showers off one MCB??? :^O :^O:^O:^O:^O:^O:^O

 

Admin1

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was'nt thinking that high?only got a couple of second hand wylex 5a jobs with the push button thing in the middle!!! :( :( :( :( :( ]:)
Who mentioned it being a BS 3036? Or have I missed something here.

I have used Wylex MCBs in stock (Not the push button type).

;)

 

Admin1

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** Note to one's self - Read the thread properly, You muppet. :_| **

 
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** Note to one's self - Read the thread properly, You muppet. :_| **
Oh come on Kermit!

its not that bad!

Beer correction factor calculations...

as the time curve approaches midnight

need to be applied here sir...

then it all makes total sense:D:D:D

Or ask KME he'll explain it to you...

 

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