replacing wiring to 1933 singer inductrial sewing machine

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Stew R

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Hello forum guys and gals,  I am new here, well, I have been lurking reading about how to power my man-cave but that's another story ....!

My grandad Sidney Lodge was an upholsterer before WWII and on his return from PoW camp resumed his occupation.  He was a brilliant man, he repaired everything and taught me to do the same rather than just throwing things away.  Sid died in 2000 and left me his old 1933 Singer industrial sewing machine, which he used to make car soft tops, re-upholster furniture, leather goods etc. well into the 1990s.   I am refurbishing the sewing machine and want to keep it as close to original as possible so that if Grandad were here he would recognise it as his own. 

Unfortunately, the pre-war wiring supplying electrical power to the General Electric Company electric motor is cloth covered and rubber sheathed, and is a long past its 'sell by' date. The three pin plug also looks a bit dodgy (one of Grandad's 1970's/1980's repairs I think).  The rating plate on the motor says it is a 1/4hp, 230/250 volt, 1.47 amp, single phase, 950 rpm motor.  I have cracked it open and, as I expected from Grandad, the bearings are well lubricated and the motor looks to be in good condition internally.  A fine mist of oil seems to have covered the wiring from the windings to the connection block and this all looks fresh and serviceable.  There is some form of centrifugal cut out I think, and that seems to operate freely so i have no reason to suspect that the motor itself will not run.  Other than removing fluff I do not propose to play around with it.  However, the power lead into the motor, which passes through a bakelite (light-type) switch on a ceramic base, is shot.  The switch looks fine and having looked at other 1930's machines, it seems to be an OEM switch. It appears to me that both the live and neutral wires run through the existing switch.

My first query is this: I would like to order some new retro-look cloth covered wiring to connect the motor to the mains, via a switch as existing.  What size/rating should the wire be and any suggestions as to a supplier (I can spank the net otherwise to locate a UK supplier)?

Secondly, ideally I would like to re-use the original Bakelite switch.  This looks to be entirely  serviceable (no cracks or breaks) and it sits on an original white circular ceramic base in which all the brass connectors and switchgear are located.   The switch is screwed to the underside of the wooden machine table.  Are there any safety issues with retaining it?.  I can buy a repro' bakelite light  switch that presumably will meet modern standards but I would like to re-use the original unless this would be dangerous?

Finally, the motor, indeed the entire metal frame, motor and clutch assembly and sewing machine itself  dos not appear to be earthed at all, which concerns me.  (the sewing machine sits on a wooden table and is only 'connected to the motor via a leather belt and so should not need grounding?) The motor though has a metal casing, with aluminum ends (and is really heavy).  I could take the earth wire from a modern repro' cable and attach it via a crimped ring connector to one of the bolt heads that holds the motor ends onto the case and connect the other end to the three pin plug (the earth pin obviously!!!).  Is it this simple? Does the earth need to run through the switch? 

I have lots of photographs if this helps, although am not quite sure how to upload them yet.

Any advice or suggestions would be really appreciated,

thanks

Stew

 
Sounds a worthy project.

You can buy replica vintage cloth covered flex from ebay for example, search for "vintage flex" or "retro flex" Here is just 2 examples:

Unsheathed fles https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twist-Coloured-Braided-Lighting-3-Core-Fabric-Cable-Silk-Flex-Cord-vintage-Retro/323803884015?hash=item4b643729ef:m:mR6KWdD6rbscUuyiPFO5wqg

Sheathed flex https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Italian-Colour-braided-lighting-3core-twist-fabric-cable-flex-cord-Vintage-Retro/163147333606?hash=item25fc56bfe6:m:mHOICAlPK95ErEPkuR0PyAA

I would use a 3 core flex and earth the body of the motor.

As long as the switch is not damaged I would keep it for originality.

 
As above, three core flex and find a suitably discreet place to connect an earth to on the body of the motor. The earth must be not be switched but can pass through the switch housing.

I would put a 5 amp fuse in the plug to protect the cable in case of fault, the 0.75 flex ProDave has linked to is rated at 6 amps.

If these's no obvious signs of damage to the switch, such as cracks, carbon build up etc, then it should be OK to use.

 
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