Van Security

[m4tty]

Hi,

Im putting on of them big hasp/round locks on back door of my transit van tomorrow (it only locks in the middle and gap is big enough to get crowbar in) and I was thinking of putting one on the side door too but theres nowhere to mount it as petrol flap is on that side.

I know you can get the Yale/Chubb locks on side doors which throws a pin from lock into bulkhead which stops the door sliding but i think that gap at the other end/handle end of the door, they would just crowbar it open so I was planning on putting a chain and padlock on sliding door inside so you can slide it open enough to get to padlock but not get in van and if they break the side door open they cannot get access into the stock/tools and the alarm will be going off.

What do you recon is the best way to do this?

Any other suggestions?

Cheers

 

[Badger]

insulation resistance meter on the door handles :slap

 

[Andy™]

insulation resistance meter on the door handles :slap

but you would need to get it where they would touch both probes at the same time. kinda hard with a large piece of metal

 

[m4tty]

The handles are plastic mate lol

 

[Andy™]

The handles are plastic mate lol

not if you put a bit of metal where you would touch, but cant see

but then your also relying on them touching the body or something else at the same time

 

[Badger]

take handle off door, drill 2 metal plates on to under side, close to each other, feed cables to megger meter, inside handle and through door handle connect to megger meter, with other door, alot of wiring and work but they would have on good POW!! off it :slap !! wouldnt touch your van in a hurry again also make sue signs are fitted inside the windows warning not to touch van handles

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

Chain is a good idea if you have a good loud alarm as its the surprise element

 

[damo-p]

a chain is a good idea but not visible i know there is still a possibility of someone trying to get in if they see the lock but i would ave thought more likely to try if they cant see one and althoug your main priority is your tools/materials etc but the cost of the damage to your van would be fairly pricey aswell

Just a thought!

 

[m4tty]

Thanks for reply mate. My dads done car bodywork / engines all his life so I know what your saying about the damage but i could straighten it out, but of bodyfiller and get the old man to respray it. It needs some work doing as it has a few dings in the bodywork and I want to signwrite it soon but want the van looking good before signwriting it.

 

[binky]

You can get some plate things that cover lock and surounding area but they are pricey, so perhaps you could get your old man to knock some up??? And whilst he's at it a set for a 5 door Vito wouldn't go amiss

 

[PC Electrics]

Hope you're not using a Sterling branded lock. This is mine after just 1 yr (yes just ONE year):

Van Lock - Shared photo album - PhotoBox

 

[m4tty]

Think it is a sterling mate .... Cheers. I'll have to spray it with lacquer or something. Do you live near the sea?

 

[PC Electrics]

Think it is a sterling mate .... Cheers. I'll have to spray it with lacquer or something. Do you live near the sea?

Err........check my location; SW Leics. Nowhere near the sea !!!

I'm an ex automotive R&D engineer and well used to engineering components for corrosion resistance. This lock is APPALLING in this respect.

I also used to engineer door locks so was mightily upset to find the Sterling lock had swarf in it and had no lubrication. I'd advise you to wash out the lock with WD40 then lube with light grease (spray white grease is best) before use. And re-lube regularly - the lock has no water ingress protection at all.

For the money, this product is badly engineered (well it isn't 'engineered' at all in my opinion) and badly manufactured. Trouble is it's pretty much all you can get.

I'd got rid of the instructions from mine, so if there's any chance you could PM me the company name and phone number (they live near Leeds I think), I'd like to be able to make contact with them.

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

We had exactly the same rust problem with that lock on one of our vans. It still rotted after we often wiped with vasaline

 

[Glospark]

After seeing that sterling lock personally i wouldn't touch em. Thought they would be stainless.

 

[Lead-Laddie]

I have the Abus version of the rear doors lock. I chooe it for a couple of reasons. First it's available in black or white so if it rusts I can remove and paint with Hammerite. Second, it retains the padlock when the doors are open so no losing the padlock. Third you can remove and replace the lock with a more sophisticated Abus lock if you require. Lastly I think it looks reasonably neat.

It retails for about

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

Word of warning to Transit & Transit Connect owners. A mate has his van broken into. Its so simple to do so i wont post it here but PM me and i will tell you how to stop it.

 

[lkayelectrical]

I had my van broken into and another attemp after I rigged one o the below up to the doors and still do of parking in a dodgy area

t accessories & ammo

 

[Andy™]

Word of warning to Transit & Transit Connect owners. A mate has his van broken into. Its so simple to do so i wont post it here but PM me and i will tell you how to stop it.

doesnt work on the newer or modified ones, but some people still try it and it causes big problems

 

[Evans Electric]

Matty , builder I work with a lot fixed a bracket to his Transit side door and they drop a steel peg in from the inside .

And I agree , hasp and padlock on the back . Theres an initial reluctance when you think ,OMG I'm drilling holes in my nice new van but just go for it , as said , the predatory drugged up scum will crawl from under their respective stones and have this inborn skill of being able to break into most vehicles within seconds .

Couple of padlocks might send them on to the next van .

Had my various vans done over 3 times , all power tools gone every time . Police not interested, even when a we had the reg. number .