When did you last rewire a 3036 fuse???

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Sproc,

Check Table 53.1 in the brb, found this when I was checking through the other day for the TT DP RCBO thing.

You should be able to get close enough with a vernier if you wanted to measure them.

 
When I take a rewirable board out I chuck the carriers Inc fuse wire in the mcb box in the van so if one was ever needed I'd just swap them over. Never changed one in my electrical life tho done one when I was about 18 though.

 
couple of weeks ago, I was changing a light and 5A fuse holder had 30A fuse wire in it (actually 2 pieces of 30A that werent long enougth so were twisted together).

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Never done it myself, however I do have 3 reels of different sized fusewire in my kit, but the labels have long since fallen off. How do I tell what amp rating the wire is? Can I measure it with a vernier and compare to some known sizes?I guess what Im asking is does the stuff have a consistent thickness depending on who manufactured it?
I think the regs has a table with fuse wire and its diameter in AWG.

 
I was changing a light and 5A fuse holder had 30A fuse wire in it (actually 2 pieces of 30A that werent long enougth so were twisted together).
Never seen that yet, but have seen it two or three times too long and double/trippled up headbang

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oops just relised i'm a year late for this one oops :Applaud

 
Just checked and the poll is apparently still live, so you could in theory still vote and reply to this thread.

 
did a 5 amp last week, blew quite a bit in the past, woman asked me to look at bedroom socket as it was blowing fuses when hairdryer

was on, found that mr home owner had put himself a nice new socket, but into the 1.5 lighting circuit feeding extension lights.

bleeding ring was only 6 inches away

 
Found two 30 amp BS3036 in two

15 amp holders recently.

Persuaded the householder to allow

me to remove them all and fit circuit

breakers instead.

 
Well I found 30A wire in a 5A Fuse and wondered what all that was about.

When I found why I was amazed, in the roof space a 1.5mm T&E from the centre bathroom light went into a 30A Joint Box, where a 6mm T&E came out went to the Shower Pull Switch and then to Shower.

So the Shower was wired off the lighting, checked the cabling in the roof for signs of overheating, but looked ok, checked fuseboard looked ok, pulled fuse disconnected circuit, phoned council to report tenant DIY.

Tenant not very unhappy, collect tools and run.

I only found this because I was connecting heating controls for a plumbing firm contracted to council for heating installs, and had to check or carry out all bonding necessary, so checking for 4mm in roof off light.

 
Well I found 30A wire in a 5A Fuse and wondered what all that was about.When I found why I was amazed, in the roof space a 1.5mm T&E from the centre bathroom light went into a 30A Joint Box, where a 6mm T&E came out went to the Shower Pull Switch and then to Shower.

So the Shower was wired off the lighting, checked the cabling in the roof for signs of overheating, but looked ok, checked fuseboard looked ok, pulled fuse disconnected circuit, phoned council to report tenant DIY.

Tenant not very unhappy, collect tools and run.

I only found this because I was connecting heating controls for a plumbing firm contracted to council for heating installs, and had to check or carry out all bonding necessary, so checking for 4mm in roof off light.
why?

yet another monkey see monkey do is it?

tell me why you would actually need a 4mm from the light?

 
I used to have to do it everytime I got home a little tipsy I had a fault on outside light controlled from 2 gang switch just inside door. I used a butter knife to rewire fuse i hate bringing tools into the house. Afters weeks of swearing I finally broke a driver in unscrewed the switch and disconnected switch wire job done lol

 
Greg I don't think you should be aloud an electrical installation again!

Hope the butter knife was insulated.

 
Jeeeeek that's a true story in fact possibly the only misleading part was in all honesty it was months rather than weeks and don't worry I always waited till I was sober before getting the lights back on lol

 
did you get this in writing from them that they wanted a deviation from 7671?that usually scares the **** outta them and they nthen want a meeting with you,

tell their 'electrical supervisor' you wont do it unless he issues an SR signed by a competent person (ie, him) as to why you are required to place additional requirements to 7671 and they usually dont have a clue.

I do quite a lot of LA and TBH most of their specs are 16th, once I pull them on it I usually get an e.mail stating 'carte blanche' as long as to current regs.
Steps, do you find they back down though, because I find that because they are paying it's do it or F*****f.

The plumbing contractor just wanting to keep the peace, like when I moaned about cross bonding all pipework underneath a combi boier, where all pipes are all connected to solid manifold, I refused to do it so they refused to pay until completed, so he had the plumbers do them instead.

 
if they still really want it doing then do it, but get it in writing from them, their spec or something, then in the deviations box put something like "blah de blah as requested by numpties name on specification xxxx"

after a couple of them they usually want to meet you.

I had one a while back where the gas supervisor kept demanding it, along with 3 amp fuses, I politely explained my cable was adequately protected by a 13a fuse but I did fit 3a as a courtesy, its the boiler instructions that ask for 3 a no nothing to do with a spark,

and that if they are fitting boilers to BS then they already meet the required bonding standard and if they need anything else doing I suggest he shows me where in BS7671 it is as their spec states I need to comply with that. he came to site, I explained this to him and showed him the manifold, he left happy, and, I think, actually enlightened, he was going on what other sparks had told him and didnt know any different.

He seemed happy to have it actually explained to him and shown just why it wasnt needed.

 
Well I found 30A wire in a 5A Fuse and wondered what all that was about.When I found why I was amazed, in the roof space a 1.5mm T&E from the centre bathroom light went into a 30A Joint Box, where a 6mm T&E came out went to the Shower Pull Switch and then to Shower.

So the Shower was wired off the lighting, checked the cabling in the roof for signs of overheating, but looked ok, checked fuseboard looked ok, pulled fuse disconnected circuit, phoned council to report tenant DIY.

Tenant not very unhappy, collect tools and run.

I only found this because I was connecting heating controls for a plumbing firm contracted to council for heating installs, and had to check or carry out all bonding necessary, so checking for 4mm in roof off light.
Dolphin showers use to do it loads. Went to one that was spurred off the shaver socket! It was back in the day when dolphin showers were operated by an internal pull cord behind the mirrored face. Pull the switch to 'off position' and it was designed to put an earth fault onto its own internal FVO RCD. Pulling cord to 'on position' reset the breaker .....quality product......... :coat

 
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