Wiring for a cooker

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wfullert

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In my kitchen I've a 6mm cable for a job going to it's own double pole switch and an oven at the other end of the kitchen on 6mm cable going to it's own double pole switch.  Both have their own 32 amp breakers in the consumer unit.

Can I connect a new cooker which needs 10mm to a switch and replace the bit of 6mm up the wall to a junction box, then have the two 6mm used in parallel providing the feed for the cooker which will need 10mm?

 
Last house we had a big beast at 14.8kw, making a metric 65 amps.  Book of words said 10mm and thought would go for the same as it was liked by all in the family.  Other than the cable chased into the wall, though could bury a 30mm pipe to allow air flow, the rest is surface mounted to the consumer unit

 
Last house we had a big beast at 14.8kw, making a metric 65 amps.  Book of words said 10mm and thought would go for the same as it was liked by all in the family.  Other than the cable chased into the wall, though could bury a 30mm pipe to allow air flow, the rest is surface mounted to the consumer unit
Th book of words also says about diversity....not the 💩y street dance ensemble

 
That's what I use BUT the entire diversity calculation is 40 years old, based on a few circuits, not the 10 - 20 that get installed these days 
Its a good rule of thumb. Who needs a 15kw cooker unless you have a restaurant? we have 2 ovens and a grill and gas hob. rarely does more than 1 oven or grill get used at once

 
Its a good rule of thumb. Who needs a 15kw cooker unless you have a restaurant? we have 2 ovens and a grill and gas hob. rarely does more than 1 oven or grill get used at once
Our cooker technically has a Max load of over 17 kw . 5 rings induction, 2 ovens and a separate grill but we rarely use much of it at the same time for example

on Boxing Day when we had our Xmas lunch we cooked the Turkey in the main oven, then while it rested wrapped in foil, we cooked the other items in the same oven. The veg was done in the microwave ....

 
I had an interesting conversation regarding cookers this morning, my neighbour had purchased a new cooker from a well known retailer of domestic appliances and computers, he'd also paid the £50 installation fee. The van arrived with the cooker in it and the men to fit it, a young lad in his early 20's and an older bloke in his late 40's, they took the cooker in and that is when it began to get interesting, they wouldn't disconnect the old one as it was gas, so the neighbour asked me to help, I disconnected it and did the required tests, so far so good.

I then notice that the older chap has a length of 6mm T&E  in his hand, I made a comment that it wasn't strictly correct to connect an appliance that was going to be pulled in and out for cleaning, in that sort of cable and pointed out that a heavy duty flex was more suitable. At this point the older guy looked at me and replied, "not really my problem mate, we get given this stuff and told to use it. end of". I was a little upset by this to say the least so I informed him that while it may have been someone else telling him to use the T&E, it was him connecting it and that contrary to whatever he thought should anything go wrong at any point it would be him as the person who installed the cooker that would end up in court.

He then went into a sort of panic,it was quite funny really, all of a sudden he was asking the customer if he really wanted them to do the install, now the customer had paid his money and obviously wanted the job done, but he wanted it done properly!

As I left he asked me if I had any of this 'special' cable and if he could have a piece, I popped into my shed and cut a couple of metres off a coil I had and gave it to him, he took it back for the guy to install the new cooker with. Apparently the guy is going to have words when he gets back, he's not prepared to carry the can if anything does happen, after all he is only doing as he's been told, although interestingly enough I believe he didn't perform an earth loop test on compltion of the install either!

I can see a very interesting situation developing later with his boss, but it is also very concerning that these people are not only carrying out installations which are not as they should be, but also appear to be doing no testing afterwards.

I had a similar issue with a BG engineer a few years ago, I was working on a property and he came to service the boiler, he plugged his socket tester into the nearby socket that fed the fused spur to the boiler, the little green light said the earth was fine (no measured value however), when I asked him how this proved the earth was good on the boiler his reply was, "well simple, the boiler is connected to the spur, the spur is fed from that socket and my tester says the socket has a good earth, therefore the boiler must have a good earth since it is working"

I didn't know quite what to think at this point, which was worse, the fact that the customer thinks it's safe because it's been 'tested' or the fact that the 'engineer' clearly hadn't a clue! Be honest we've all seen stuff that 'works' but isn't safe and how could this guy be 100% sure that the earth between the socket,spur,boiler was indeed intact, he couldn't. It's all very worrying when you think about it isn't it.

 
I must have seen hundreds and hundreds of free standing cookers connected with 6mm t&e and never seen one that has had an issue.

And judging by the state when you remove them, nobody, but NOBODY regularly pulls them out to clean behind.

The chances of that old guy ending up in court is pretty well nil.

 
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I then notice that the older chap has a length of 6mm T&E  in his hand, I made a comment that it wasn't strictly correct to connect an appliance that was going to be pulled in and out for cleaning, in that sort of cable and pointed out that a heavy duty flex was more suitable.


should have asked him to open the instructions and state what cale was specified

 
should have asked him to open the instructions and state what cale was specified
The funny thing was Andy, that as soon as I mentioned cable, his first comment was "yeah, they should be wired in 10mm shouldn't they", that made me laugh,now ok I knew it wasn't a cooker that required a 10mm, but the hilarious thing was that even though the guy thought it should have been wired in 10mm, he was happy to wire it in 6mm because that's what he'd been given. thank god they had run out of wet string. lol

 
As a side note....

I would add the observation that on numerous electric ovens I have seen...

The connection terminals on the rear, in those poxy plastic housing with a clip over lid...

Have a cable clamp that is often rubbish a gripping any sort of cable or flex..

but typically is marginally better for a flat cable than a round flex..!?   :C

Just an observation.

Guinness

 
Pulling the cooker out to clean!  Tube cooker only comes out when the cat leaves a nest of mice under the thing.  Interesting question though...  T&E or flexible flex which isn't gripped.  Arguably should be a flex as night storage rads are flexed.  Assume you can't get heavy guage flex?  The original question was about load sharing X2 6mm to the consumer unit as that's what's in place.  Is it allowed when there's 10mm too a junction box too splice into the sixes?

 
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