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Best post i have ever read i think! john..

Can i give you some advice???? I would not give a shit what ANY supplier said, as all they are interested in is selling you stuff. ASK THE FIRE BRIGADE. or ask the good people of Grenfell.. There is such a thing as a fire "triangle" you see.. You need THREE things for a fire, fuel, oxygen, and...

Stupidest thread i have ever read.... Do not pay then a penny, until it is all repaired properly. They will not care, as this is why they have business insurance... john..

Hi There, never realised it was only 50v. Welding cable will do that, although it is not what i would use. 35mm is a standard welding cable size, as is 50mm. Anyway,, here we have H07 and a LOT cheaper than decent welding cable too..

Do not have to supply anything.. Are they marked as being suitable for mains voltages, thought not.. I have not seen decent welding cable for many many years.. At one time the welding return cable was very different fron that used for the electrode, but hey, i used to teach welding technology in...

15 years ago you were not paying 38p a unit either

Why not use the proper H07-RN-F cable?? This is the nicest lovely cable you will ever find [bearing in mind that all the welder cable you see now is cheap chinese shit] AND comes in sizes up to 500mm john..

Hi there, Nice quailty stuff then!! Anyway, you should have no problems at all running either of these from a MUCH smaller supply than 50A Any idea what size motors are fitted?? No larger than about 1 or 1.5 hp i would think.. To be honest i would think that a 10A supply with a "C" curve mcb...

Where would i start??? I would recommend that you get yourself some books on basic electrical theory.. NEVER EVER try to measure current by putting a meter across a supply of any sort.. If you did that with the mains you would have had a current of up to around 1000A flowing through your probes...

I would imagine that if the lathe etc is on an inverter then it has soft start and there will be next to no start up surge.. Can you tell me what make and model of lathe and miller you have as i will be able to help you more then.. john..

You just proved my point... john..

Nobody said you were a moron, but you clearly have no idea what you are doing where electricity is concerned. Only an idiot would have connected an ammeter across a PD of any sort. You had no idea what was going to happen.. john..

All depends on what you mean by "fast" chargers.. Doubt there is any diversity with them either.. john..

Yes, it is 6.49 amps per phase. How many are there?? The problem is not finding a cable rated for the current, it is finding a cable that satisfies volt drop and EFLI requirements, so get your calculator out.. Never mind what breaker, how are you going to arrange switching so the customer can...

Should this read; "it doesn’t seem to start, occasionally there is a tick noise coming from the box" I think they have all three phases connected together to the single line in their house and wonder why it will not go.. john..

And there you go, just to show that i am not full of shit, here is my second supply!! I made the metal meter box thingy it is in [as there is/was nowhere else to mount the DNO meter box] Instead of a REC 4, i used an MCCB to provide the isolation [and also over current protection] as the tails...

Mine says GSB 18 VE- 2Li so check, but same one i would say.. john..

Ok, been there done it, yes, i have TWO separate supplies to the same property, one a single phase TNS and the other, a three phase TNCS All you need to provide is; 1, The REC4 isolator that Sharpend recommended. [I doubt they would connect to any other sort] 2, An earth block.. You will...

Ok.. I actually HAVE one of these. Post the EXACT model number so i can check, but all i can say, is i have had mine for about ten years, and it has been ansd still is BRILLIANT. Ten years on the batteries are starting to fade, but the drill is perfect. I bought mine at the full price about £200...

It would be the Zs at the point where the new circuit starts, sometimes called Zdb Would be pointless doing Zs, as what about all the wiring inbetween the origin and where the new circuit starts. You would have to work out the R1 + R2 for that bit too then.. john..