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i suspect a N-E fault on the boiler circuit.these faults can really upset RCDs. sometimes they trip when any load is applied, not always on the RCD protected circuit/s.sometimes they inhibit the RCD from tripping even on the test button. a thorough investigation of the boiler circuit is my call.

might be located within the + terminal assembly on the battery itself. failing that, a fuse/relay box in the engine compartment.

galv boxes will rot over time. I prefer wiska boxes using their bespoke gland plates. 

if the downlight fitting has an earth terminal, then connect the cpc (earth wire) to that. if not, just leave it terminated in the junction box.

the engineer code should be the same as it was before.  as long as it does not start with a 9, the codes can be reset. also, engineer tamper alarm reset can be disabled. tomorrow evening i'll try and root out the tech data to do this. i've forgotten it.

so are you saying that you have a perm L and N with no fault. and using these for a smart bulb, switched remotely?

maybe he had to slope off for some cheesecake.

so where's the post???

just put it on the cert. as a deviation, with the reason that being in an outside meter box, a metal CU would be liable to corrosion.

pete10001 is gloucester way. might get him out of retirement for this.

could be a large load being switched on fed off the same sub-station, causing a brief drop in supply voltage. e.g. motors etc. in a nearby workshop/garage.

personally, I'd feed the grid switches with a dedicated radial 4.0mm on a 32A MCB/RCBO. keep the heavy loads off the RFC.

OK. look at app.15 in BS7671. spur from ring final circuit. fuse down at socket that you're coming off, (13A), then a single 1.5 mm to heaters. D/P neon switch for each heater.

TBH, judging by your posts, I don't think you have the knowledge and the equipment to ensure a safe installation. I'd consult a local spark.

as above. need more info. are you asking what size flex for each heater, or fixed wiring? answers on a beermat. 

thinking is so last century. bung it in, see if it gets hot. if not, cash in arse pocket, hi ho silver. 😋

seems like battery is U/S and the ext. sounder is going off under it's own battery. as Geoff says. and if you post your rough location, a member may be close to assist in resetting codes, if it can be done.

you need to be a registered installer to buy from Risco. they do a course on the system. I went  earlier this year.  

my choice is the Lightsys, but others prefer Texecom. 

either.