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Very irritating if it's all the time. Sounds just like my Economy 10 contactor. But that only clunks six times a day, and it's in my garage, so I can't hear it indoors. We once had an intermittent "chirp" noise every 10 minutes or so from somewhere in our kitchen. A cricket or similar insect...

There are some armoured cables that include a twisted pair, to provide an internet connection from the house.

Understood, but you said it was charging to 100% during peak hours.

Hi Wendy Did they explain in what way it was wired incorrectly ? If the battery was able to be charged, then it should be able to discharge., with the same wiring. Sounds more like settings to me.

Got the alert, and a voice message by a woman with an American accent ! Perhaps Jo Brand was unavailable.....

So is the PV1 array shaded until about 1400 ? Even slightly ? As suggested by the abrupt start.

I'm not knowledgeable enough to know whether those blue graphs showing PV1 volts between 06:00 and 21:00 indicate that the inverter is converting that to AC power. Which is why I was hoping to see some DC power graphs. Both arrays are roughly pointing south, so will combining require optimisers...

I would have thought a heat pump. "The property is not well insulated .......... so any form of heat pump would seem to be out of the question." Poor insulation will impact any form of heating. I don't know if ASHP's are any different ? I understand that the circulating water in a heat pump...

And a day's graph of "Battery State of Charge (SOC)" or " % Remaining Charge" to show what the battery is doing.

Are you able to grab graphs that have been expanded in the app to show just one day ? Any reason why the inverter isn't set to "never Export", often called "Anti Reflux" for some reason ? Or do you want to Export, for FITS payments ? "PV1 array is in full sun and making what appears to be good...

Hi Peter 1. Does the blue neutral with the CT on go to the main 63A "breaker", 3rd from right on the top row ? CT's can go on the neutral, if they're pointed in the "opposite" direction. 2. I suspect the 4 panels on PV1 aren't generating the minimum volts the inverter requires, 128V, 144V from...

From the Troubleshooting Guide that UNG pointed you to: Burner on with no demand - Autofroststat. Board fault. - Test G Carry out Test G

As binky said. Because the MC4 connectors are for the PV, and require a minimum of 380V to work. Batteries are only 48V or sometimes 96V.

1. Try different modes on the programmer. 2. Next set the programmer to CONSTANT. Does it still fire up with the HW and CH thermostats disconnected ?

With a Sofar it's worth doing some CT checks when there's little or no PV generation. Set the CT to UNLOCKED/UNFREEZE in the menus. Switch battery and inverter off. Wait a minute then switch back on with a load from the house - oven or fan heater etc. Let the CT settle down showing house...

Hi Brendan What's in the big grey MEM box ? What's below the bottom of the image ? I agree with Geoff, everything in your image appears to be unpowered.

To expand on ProDave's reply: The tenant should have their own sub "fuse box" (Consumer Unit) that has all their circuits in it, and is fed by a single cable from the building's supply. Then the meter can either go in-between the inverter and its "fuse" in that CU. So that it measures the...

The existing swimming pool heating could be supplemented by the excess ?

On my Sofar HYD5000-ES (okay so may not mean the same), according to the User Manual: "BatOV" means "Battery high voltage protect" "ID100‐ID103 is battery fault. If this fault occurs occasionally, wait a few minutes to see whether the problem is solved. If this fault occurs frequently, please...

The EPS output is probably not rated to cover the whole house load. So "just a changeover on the incoming supply" is not the whole story. A few crucial circuits will have to be extended to John's beefy multipole changeover switch. With the "Normal" multipole outputs wired back to the original...