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Whenever you install an item outside ( or special location ) should you drill a drain hole in the enclosure. I’m conflicted about this. Some the chaps at work do some don’t.    1. If you don’t drill a hole then condensation can build up. 2. If you do drill a hole then the enclosure is in...

Yeah my placement it rubbish but sticking with it for now. 

Thanks chaps I appreciate your insight. Always will bring my knowledge to the table and weigh it up against those who have experience. Just like clarification which I’m very grateful you all take the time to chip into my knowledge. I normally get laughed at work. Thanks again. 

yes it’s one of those. When the earth is tested via the sheath he got 0.27 and from the earth bar in the service head he got 0.15 so it’s clearly a separate earth from the sheath. My thoughts are that yes a earthing conductor should be connected in the service head ( to make PME) but the old...

The DNO did the work of a new service head and said that they left the TN-S connected but the customer would need to get an electrician to connect a new earthing conductor to the service head 

I went out today with one of the lads who was asked to change a customer to tn-c-s from tn-s. The DNO had just put in a new service head and this one had an active PME. The chap just removed the earthing conductor of the sheath of the cable and put it into the service head to move the customers...

Yes so if each in and out cable went into a wago box and then like 6” of flex went to the Down light then I don’t see how this would be any different to a light pendant. Surely that’s ok ? 

This was my thinking as you have flex from ceiling rose but yes the lights would be daisy chained from each other so best just put the earths in wagos outside the light fittings 

I hear you on that. If 2 + E was used as there is no terminal for the earth and no space to clip the Earth on a wago inside the down light, how would it be best to terminate the earth. I’ve seen it when the sleeving is put on and bent over but is this the done thing ? 

Hi Chaps was installing Down lights today with one of the electricians. The lights in question were 8 spotlights that only required a L & N. Because of this the supply to the lights was ran to a wago junction box and the sparky ran 2 core ( no earth ) from the supply wago box to each...

when there is not a main isolation switch install how to you put Henley blocks in to split the tails without pulling the fuse ? 

Ok got ya. If a main switch couldn’t be put in via Henley block direct to supply then could you use a BS1361 in a fused main switch that was ran from a circuit breaker in the main board ? 

I absolutely agree this is why I don’t like working with my boss as it does appear he likes short cuts. I know that’s not good but as long as I know them and keep learning the right way.    Just a question on switch fuse I assume if you wanted to RCD protect the cable to the outbuilding from...

That was my thoughts just have a main switch CU in the outbuilding but the boss is trying to use up stock and has loads of garage unit RCD boards. But yeah I get it , it’s OK to be done as it won’t really affect discrimination as no other circuit apart from the outbuilding DB will be affected. 

Even if I was just the RCD for Fault protection ? That’s my concern. 

It is a 16mm2 SWA 2 core using armour as the earth. It’s 85 meters long. Outbuilding is small so not a lot of cable in the outbuilding it’s self. The earthing is TN-S but it’s 0.72 so within limits but doesn’t leave a lot of play for R1 + R2 . It’s a 32A so only allowed 1.10 . 

Hi Chaps I Just wanted to check something. If you have an outbuilding that has an RCD board ( 30mA)  installed and then it runs back to the house on a main switch RCD (also 30mA) that is connected to a Henley block would this be OK ? I know both might trip but that wouldn't be a issue for...

Quick question on volt drop.  If you run power to an outbuilding ( single phase) when calculating volt drop would you allow the 5% for general or 3% for lighting. The outbuilding would have lighting in it but when I asked the question the chap I worked with he said you allow 5% as it’s not...

Great thought so 🙂 Thanks for the clarity. Locked to prevent being resurrected (again)

Ok I get it. If there was extraneous conductive part in the outbuilding would you then need an earth rod? Or in what case there the main house incomer is either a TN-S or TN-C-S would you need an earth rod in an outbuilding?