Air rifle / shooting

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Ooh I don't know R smells really nice! ;)

I mean an oil based coating not one of these poxy water based things that are around these days.

I wouldn't worry about a shine, that way no reflections for the target to see.

 
Traditional way is multiple very light coats of boiled linseed oil, with each coat allowed to dry before next application, but wonder what the "waterproofing" is that's been applied? 

 
My old man was a cabinet maker and liked the old traditional ways of treating wood.

Matt varnish will seal it, but the spinning sound I'd hear for sanctioning that would be coming from his resting place! 

 
Sorry @New Venture!

I'm **** at this sort of stuff, I know what you are saying, I'm just trying to be practical with my abilities. 

A

I have no way of boiling linseed

B

I wouldn't know if it was right anyway

C

I wouldn't know if I was putting it on right



I wouldn't know when enough was enough to seal it from my dirty mitts

 
You can buy the stuff in places like Wickes. It's not boiled anymore, the old traditional name stuck but nowadays it's made of linseed and a combination of different solvents. It's a very time consuming process though as you need a load of layers applied. 

Some of the other guys (i.e. younger!) might have treated gun stocks with other stuff. I'll also ask my mate who refurbishes stocks what he advises. 

 
I went through a phase of stripping and refinishing my stock. On the Original 45 it's a plan beech stock, no chequering or anything. I longed to be able to afford a custom, thumb hole stock in burr walnut from say Venom (are they still going?)

In the end I had a go with linseed oil then teak oil. The French polish was a step too far! Much too shiny and fragile but looked like a mirror. As I left it the stock had been taken back & stained black then oiled with linseed or teak oil. Been sat in the loft for probably 20 years. I think I might have fitted another spring (Ox?). Can't remember if I changed from the leather washer to something else like PTFE.....it was on the cards.

I did fit a John Bowkett  (?) brass trigger thingy. Also had a custom leather sling made for it. Same guy made me one for the crossbow I made.

 
Can you still get Rustins plastic coating? Very hard wearing. Naturally glossy, but you can take it back with some fine steel wool or even a pan scourer.

I have a Turkish springer air rifle, used to have a couple of pre-charged ones, but never used them once I got proper guns.

 
Can you still get Rustins plastic coating? Very hard wearing. Naturally glossy, but you can take it back with some fine steel wool or even a pan scourer.

I have a Turkish springer air rifle, used to have a couple of pre-charged ones, but never used them once I got proper guns.


Why go against the wisdom of generations of gun owners? You won't go far wrong with linseed oil tbh. I just used to rub 3 in 1 on the external metalwork repairing and blueing with cold blueing gel. I do remember using some gun specific, exotic lubes up the barrel, in the spring etc.

 
Why go against the wisdom of generations of gun owners? You won't go far wrong with linseed oil tbh. I just used to rub 3 in 1 on the external metalwork repairing and blueing with cold blueing gel. I do remember using some gun specific, exotic lubes up the barrel, in the spring etc.


A

I have non of that wisdom

B

I want an easy solution,  :)

Im taking the lad out to a range tomorrow,

I'll ask for some collective wisdom there of an easy method,,,,,,  :|

 
Might do but it tastes rank
You been speaking to SSS,? :(

I was basing my findings on oil based products I have excess amounts of,

That's water based,,,, :|

 
Reminds me of a lad at the sailing club a few years ago..... His grandfather always looked after his Topper dinghy and decided to wax it... now waxing the hull isn't a very good idea as it ruins the flow of the water,,,, but putting it on the decks is even worse..... think of Fred Flintstone hitting a patch of ice ;)

 
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