Anti tamper ??

Talk Electrician Forum

Help Support Talk Electrician Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Subneural

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2008
Messages
264
Reaction score
0
To cut a very long story shortish.....

Went to a job yesterday and ended up taking the front off the alarm panel to remove the cable so I could IR test the light circuit it was connected to. Alarm wouldn't set later because, according to the guy who fitted it - The anti tamper on the fuse had activated.

Accordingly the customer now wants me to cough up

 
tamper can require engineer re-set before panel can be put back into use. this can be done by customer if they know the code, but most installers keep the code to themselves for warranty issues. i never set up an alarm so it requires engineer re-set (unless someone requested it to)

obviously, this would require a call out from engineer to sort it

 
He has just reset the panel, there is no anti-tamper on the fuses in any panel I have ever fitted.

P.S. Most alarm engineers talk rubbish, I do it myself, at least a spider did not walk infront of a PIR.

 
I thought as much, looks like I'm in for a fun ride with the householder over this one then.

 
You should point out that it should be on its own circuit and not spurred of the lights as if lights mcb tripped or are switched off at the DB again then he will be getting the alarm engineer back again and spending another

 
Yeah also if there was a prob with lights when your out and it breaks your alarm aint gonna be worth diddly.

 
You should point out that it should be on its own circuit and not spurred of the lights as if lights mcb tripped or are switched off at the DB again then he will be getting the alarm engineer back again and spending another
 
He has just reset the panel, there is no anti-tamper on the fuses in any panel I have ever fitted. P.S. Most alarm engineers talk rubbish, I do it myself, at least a spider did not walk infront of a PIR.
just about every panel will have a tamper on the cover. which means you will trigger it getting to any fuses.

 
not quite. an alarm should never sound or go into tamper if the power fails if it does, you got a problem (most likely dead battery). you only get the problems if the cover is removed, triggering the tamper.to re-set the tamper, its usually a case of entering user code, but some can be set to need engineer code to re-set
tis what op wrote?

Went to a job yesterday and ended up taking the front off the alarm panel to remove the cable so I could IR test the light circuit
 
To cut a very long story shortish.....Went to a job yesterday and ended up taking the front off the alarm panel to remove the cable so I could IR test the light circuit it was connected to. Alarm wouldn't set later because, according to the guy who fitted it - The anti tamper on the fuse had activated.

Accordingly the customer now wants me to cough up
 
well nobody seems to of asked...what make/model of panel is it???

you may be able to get engineer codes from instruction manual if the net..

or try 9999, 0123, 1234 ??
if they needed to call an enginner, chances are its been changed

 
He has just reset the panel, there is no anti-tamper on the fuses in any panel I have ever fitted. P.S. Most alarm engineers talk rubbish, I do it myself, at least a spider did not walk infront of a PIR.
For your info spiders can cause this to happen on Passive infra reds,also thunderbugs.

Depends on the quality and make of the device.

Always advisable to spray fly killer once a month near the front of PIRs summer autumn stops thunder bugs,same with smoke alarms if you are in the sticks.

As asked the name or panel model should be identified and should be user reset on tamper unless it is a high security installation.Also mains interference usually uses a tamper part of the system to indicate ,mains fail of one chip on the printed circuit.

Is this panel for domestic or business.

 
All alarm panels will have an anti tamper on the alarm "lid". Otherwise all alarms could be de-activated.

Sounds like if the user code did not work then the engineer who fitted it programed a engineer reset.

I never do this because I could not be arsed with a midnight call out to reset an alarm.

I always re program my own personal engineer code, handy for when joe the plumber, or bob the builder has to do some work.

Domestic installations do not require the same outputs or design features like monitored systems, where double knock is normally used, along with delay and multi alarm trips.

You should tell the client that whilst you agree the problem was caused when you removed the cover, they, as the owners of the system should be able to disable ALL alarm activations without the need to call out the engineer who fitted the system.

Failing that rely on your professional indemnity insurance and get them to fill out 26 forms to make the claim.

 
Top