ChisusChrist
Member
Hello,
Sorry it has taken me so long to get round to doing this, the ethernet port on my z77 sabertooth mobo died and it was a nightmare taking it all apart to get sent away and then rebuilding.
Personally, most of the gate faults that i have come across seem to be due to safety devices. Anyway, so here's a list of some things to look out for when looking at an automatic gate.
Sympton;
Gate is stuck open
Obstruction of safety/photo cells, some sites i get people blocking them on purpose. Commonly in summer weeds/grass and vines grow over them and during the winter the water droplets freeze over the plastic housing and defract the beam. i've also found spiders running around in the photocell housings also. Always make sure they're clean and you can hear the relay click when swiping your hand over them.
Safety or free exit inductance loops - Ensure the cable is not sticking out of the ground and the loop detectors have not locked up, most have a lights and a reset button. Sensitivity
can be changed, i've come across some set so that a single steel toe capped boot could open a gate.
Gate getting a continuous open command - Most gate control boards will have LEDs or a display showing what inputs the gate is receiving, sometimes things like the keypad or intercom handset can lock up and give a constant close circuit to the open command.
Safety edges - Depending on how the safety edge is wired, 'bar' or through 'photocells' can keep the gate open is activated. If the edge is a resistive, test whether you're getting 8k2 resistance. If mechanical, check the terminals for continuity. Mechanical play up very often when damaged by a vehicle.
Emergency break glass - Believe it or not, but this is a very common fault that i get. I personnally replace the break glass with resettable LED indicator models where I can.
Swing gates with rams, geometry - When a swing gates hinges and rams wear over time, if the gate swings further then 90o s, when the gate goes to shut and the hydraulic arm within the ram pushes outwards, it forces the gate leaf the wrong way and the gate timer will just stop and the gate will believe it is shut but still wide open.
Gates moving but then back off a short distance
Gate closes but opens about a foot afterwards - there are a couple of things that can cause this. First is that when the gate closes, it causes to gate to vibrate/move from the force and it activates a safety edge/bar. The other is that the gate is encountering too much resistance and as a safety precaution backs off, extremely common in low volt gates on a windy day.
Gates not moving at all
Safety edge or safety loop - if these are activated the gate will not move at all, depending on the wiring and programming of the control board. i've had a couple of thieves cut the safety edges thinking it would open the gate before.
Wireless transmission
Board not detecting wireless receiver - Some control boards requires a 'clean' open or closed circuit in order for it to detect. A way of testing this would be to use a link cable across the terminals and make or break the connection, if that works, i would use a relay and pass the 0V through the wireless receiver.
Thanks for taking the time to read this. Feel free to add any problems and/or faults you have come across.
Sorry it has taken me so long to get round to doing this, the ethernet port on my z77 sabertooth mobo died and it was a nightmare taking it all apart to get sent away and then rebuilding.
Personally, most of the gate faults that i have come across seem to be due to safety devices. Anyway, so here's a list of some things to look out for when looking at an automatic gate.
Sympton;
Gate is stuck open
Obstruction of safety/photo cells, some sites i get people blocking them on purpose. Commonly in summer weeds/grass and vines grow over them and during the winter the water droplets freeze over the plastic housing and defract the beam. i've also found spiders running around in the photocell housings also. Always make sure they're clean and you can hear the relay click when swiping your hand over them.
Safety or free exit inductance loops - Ensure the cable is not sticking out of the ground and the loop detectors have not locked up, most have a lights and a reset button. Sensitivity
can be changed, i've come across some set so that a single steel toe capped boot could open a gate.
Gate getting a continuous open command - Most gate control boards will have LEDs or a display showing what inputs the gate is receiving, sometimes things like the keypad or intercom handset can lock up and give a constant close circuit to the open command.
Safety edges - Depending on how the safety edge is wired, 'bar' or through 'photocells' can keep the gate open is activated. If the edge is a resistive, test whether you're getting 8k2 resistance. If mechanical, check the terminals for continuity. Mechanical play up very often when damaged by a vehicle.
Emergency break glass - Believe it or not, but this is a very common fault that i get. I personnally replace the break glass with resettable LED indicator models where I can.
Swing gates with rams, geometry - When a swing gates hinges and rams wear over time, if the gate swings further then 90o s, when the gate goes to shut and the hydraulic arm within the ram pushes outwards, it forces the gate leaf the wrong way and the gate timer will just stop and the gate will believe it is shut but still wide open.
Gates moving but then back off a short distance
Gate closes but opens about a foot afterwards - there are a couple of things that can cause this. First is that when the gate closes, it causes to gate to vibrate/move from the force and it activates a safety edge/bar. The other is that the gate is encountering too much resistance and as a safety precaution backs off, extremely common in low volt gates on a windy day.
Gates not moving at all
Safety edge or safety loop - if these are activated the gate will not move at all, depending on the wiring and programming of the control board. i've had a couple of thieves cut the safety edges thinking it would open the gate before.
Wireless transmission
Board not detecting wireless receiver - Some control boards requires a 'clean' open or closed circuit in order for it to detect. A way of testing this would be to use a link cable across the terminals and make or break the connection, if that works, i would use a relay and pass the 0V through the wireless receiver.
Thanks for taking the time to read this. Feel free to add any problems and/or faults you have come across.
