estimate help, trying to keep competitive though, but not screw myself....

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matt.leung

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just going over an estimate for a new client. trying to work out a labour cost:

here's the job details....

To upgrade consumer unit. The new CU will be a Wylex 10way split load.

To upgrade eco 7 distro unit. This new unit will be a Wylex 5way with a 32a RCBO breaker

To upgrade all of the bonding to water in 10mm. Access will be required to under floor boards in the hall way and in the bathroom.

Location of gas meter is also required

Bedroom:

To convert two single sockets to double sockets. All sockets will be MK

To change the front plate of the FCU.

To install a panel heater.

To change the light switch

To install a new light fitting

Bathroom:

To install a new electric shower. Please note that I will not be connecting up any plumbing. The shower isolator will be located on the outer bathroom hall.

To change the pull cord switch

To install a new light fitting

Bathroom cupboard:

To install a socket for the washing machine.

To install a new timer and isolation switch for the water tank immersion heater

Kitchen:

To convert a single socket to a double socket.

To install a new double socket

To install an isolation switch for a single socket to feed the fridge

To remove a single socket

To remove a double socket

To install an electric oven outlet.

To install an extract fan outlet with isolation

To remove the isolation switch that is located in the kitchen for the water immersion heater.

To change the light switch

To install a new light fitting

Lounge:

To change the FCU plate for the storage heater

To convert a single socket into a double socket

To change the socket plates on two double sockets

To change the light switch

To install a new light fitting

Hallway:

To change the light switch

To install a new light fitting

what do u think is a fair price..

 
Have u a list of materials I get the quote from few wholesalers add 20% then work out a day rate work out how many days it should allow bit extra for any unforeseen problems add

 
I'm the same if it's same jobs then 25 to 30 quid a point, but bigger jobs I charge 200 a day we're in it to make money and do a good job. I have no idea how people can go round working for nothing and do a good job at the same time, well I have had a few of theses jobs over the last year that I have had to put right, so some times we get more work by picking up the pieces, and one was a well known company who had fitted a fan and left the switch wire out in free air live I may add :mad:

 
The fundemental rules for any business is to work out your static and active overheads first. Static overheads are things like rent, tax, insurance, adverts, and all other costs that you would still have to pay if you did no work at all. Active costs would be fuel, wear and tear, tolls expences and the like. Once you have these basic costs you can calculate how much you need to earn to provide a profit. In this current financial climate most companies have cut their profit in order to just keep a good workflow and chashflow, the minimum you should look to work for is to break even, this will pay all your overheads and pay wages, but will not allow you to grow your business.

The job described above could never be definatively priced, simply because we all have differing overheads. I have to earn

 
I can never understand why most people give a "price" for the job.

For 99% of my work, I give an ESTIMATE based on how long I think the job will take, and how much I think the parts will cost.

Most customers are happy with this and it means if the job takes longer I don't lose out. As soon as it looks like the job is going to over run, I talk to the customer, explain the reasons it's taking longer and keep them updated on the likely final cost. I fond most appreciate the honesty and openness.

Certainly for a job with this many unknowns, that's the way I would do it.

so it comes down to estimating how many hours it will take you, and knowing what hourly rate you charge, and that's based partly on the going rate in the area, and partly on what overheads you have.

 
Matt.Leung. In my opinion you shouldn't expect anyone to quote without going to site (other than new build )

As said many times on here , you need to know your standard hourly rate , none of us know what your overheads are .

So the easy bit is :-

Have a look at the job .

Theres a list on here of what pitfalls to look for, laminate flooring, loft boarded over etc.

Price the materials and add 20% .

The hard bit is :-

You basically take an educated guess at how long it will take you and add the two together . Break it down if you like, 1 day in the loft , upstairs plugs 2 days, change board 1/2 day etc. And thats it , you have to take a risk, it will never be perfect, you may be there an extra day, next job you may finish a day early , don't worry about it.

No one knows how quickly you work, are you a pitherer, do you keep having to return to the wholesalers like some I know, do you keep trying to do three jobs at the same time and end up driving round all day or are you well organised?

In other words only you know how much you need to charge .

 
Matt, if they go with someone else ask what the price was . I did estimating for a while and ,comercially,we always asked to see the the other quotes. (After a quote had been accepted , obviously)

Often 6,8 or 10 contractors would quote .

A lot would be very close ,giving the customer the real value of the work.

A really high one usually meant that firm didn't want the job.

A really low one would worry the customer ,they would often say to them ,you are very low are you willing to stand by that price if we accept it , and they would usually drop out .

Often it was down to what mark up we put on the materials . Most contractors were paying much the same wages and could buy materials at similar discounts .

 
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