Extending earth cable for wall socket

[kiwi_bird]

Hi

I have perhaps a bit of a dumb question about extending an earth cable.

I recently bought a 2 gang wall socket with USB chargers and have been replacing them around the flat. Everything has been fine up until one socket. The terminals for live and earth are on opposite sides from the original socket so I've had to move the cables around - unfortunately the 2 earth cables that connected into the old socket are not long enough to connect to the terminal on the new socket so I've attached a single cable where the two earths meet and then run that to the terminal in the socket. Everything works fine but I'm a bit concerned this may be wrong. I've ordered a socket tester to make sure everything is ok but wanted to check it here as well for peace of mind. Here's a picture of the wiring to show what I've done.

On another note the wiring diagram for the new socket shows functional earth cables as pictured here. Presumably this is just to earth the backbox which isn't necessary as the fixing screws are linked to the earth terminal on this socket?

Any advice is much appreciated.

Thanks,

Ed

 

[Phoenix]

As long as you have made the joint in an mechanically and electrically sound manner then thats ok. I have a problem with how that leaflet appears to use the term functional earth, but it does seem like it is indicating a flylead to the box (not required as long as you have one fixed lug, but doesn't hurt to fit)

You get some sockets called clean earth sockets, in which the two earth terminals are not linked, one is the protective earth to the lugs that the screws pass through, the other is the 'clean earth' which i could envision being called a functional earth, these are quite rare these days, they were to reduce interference on computer systems that used ground referenced commincations (very very rare these days). But you don't seem to have one of these. You get have intructions that refer to an earth thats clearly a protective earth as a functional one.

 

[Apache]

Yes - how have you joined the 3 earth wires? What you have done is fine as long as the cable is the correct colour, size and joined properly.

 

[Evans Electric]

Ah !  The return of the missing veterinary  ...welcome to the Forum .    :innocent

 

[Apache]

Ah !  The return of the missing veterinary  ...welcome to the Forum .    :innocent

Thanks! Not dead, just very busy (building a new surgery)

 

[Sharpend]

Thanks! Not dead, just very busy (building a new surgery)

Oh really, you’ll need a better excuse than that! 
that’s like canoey coming back after all this time saying his boat sunk!!

 

[Evans Electric]

Blimey we'll have  Stepps  signing next .

Thanks! Not dead, just very busy (building a new surgery)

Hope you're doing your own  electrics 'Patche.      You won't need Part P as its a commercial job  so crack on with it . 

 

[Apache]

Blimey we'll have  Stepps  signing next .

Hope you're doing your own  electrics 'Patche.      You won't need Part P as its a commercial job  so crack on with it . 

You know I am!

New 10mm instantaneous water heater circuit. Extend ring main. Extend light and some EM lights.

 

[Evans Electric]

Sounding good !.  

 

[Apache]

It's not great TBH. Not a RCD in sight. Old Moeller board in a very tight space. Have never done a full CU swap but considering it. For a small industrial unit wired a bit odd - 3 socket and 2 lighting circuits. Now also has a 50A water heater

 

[kiwi_bird]

Thanks all, that's very helpful

I used my my new SOK36 on it and it all reported back fine so I guess it's ok. The connection could probably be better however as the wires are just wound around each other and then have insulation tape on top. I think I have a 16amp strip of Terminal Blocks lying around somewhere - I guess I could just use these?

 

[Andy™]

twisting copper together and covering in tape is not an acceptable method of joining them

It's not great TBH. Not a RCD in sight. Old Moeller board in a very tight space. Have never done a full CU swap but considering it. For a small industrial unit wired a bit odd - 3 socket and 2 lighting circuits. Now also has a 50A water heater

just change it. im sure youll be fine

if you go get it wrong though, you can get some component smoke from here to fix it

https://planet.davewylie.uk/toolstore/Online_Catalogue_Consumables_3.html

 

[kiwi_bird]

Actually the RCD test didn't trip anything I'm assuming it's because the breaker is 32mA as pictured and the SOK36 is 30mA. Should I get the breaker changed to 30 in the fusebox?

https://imgur.com/a/kUuquwM

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Actually the RCD test didn't trip anything I'm assuming it's because the breaker is 32mA as pictured and the SOK36 is 30mA. Should I get the breaker changed to 30 in the fusebox?

https://imgur.com/a/kUuquwM

Your Board doesn't have any RCD's..

So they cannot trip... as they are NOT there!!!!!!!!!!!!!   :shakehead

just a main switch & 5x MCBs....

The breaker is NOT 32ma..

IT is 32A..

The board does not comply with current wiring regulations...

and is several years out-of-date as RCD's have been required..

(gradually over an increasing variety of circuits.. ) 

For more years than I can remember..  {20+?}

You may well have extended the wires in the back of the socket ok..

and...  It may not be Unsafe...

BUT..

It is NOT as safe as it could be and should be...  as you have no shock protection..

Classic example of where a small bit of knowledge/experience is dangerous IMHO...

DIY thinking.....  , it works so it must be OK..

But absolutely no idea about what regulations it should comply with..

:shakehead

 

[kiwi_bird]

Hi Special Location

Thanks for the response. Changing the sockets made we want to quickly check everything with the SOK36 however I haven't touched anything near the fuse box - it's all how it was when I moved in.

Here's a pic of everything in that cupboard - https://imgur.com/a/ogtZKl1 ?

Should I call an electrician asap to install some RCDs?

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Murdoch]

Hi Special Location

Thanks for the response. Changing the sockets made we want to quickly check everything with the SOK36 however I haven't touched anything near the fuse box - it's all how it was when I moved in.

Here's a pic of everything in that cupboard - https://imgur.com/a/ogtZKl1 ?

Should I call an electrician asap to install some RCDs?

Thanks again for the help.

Retrofitting that fuseboard won't make sense - better to locate some local sparks via recommendation and get quotes for a replacement fuseboard. If you live in England or Wales make sure they can sort the Part P compliance too.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Hi Special Location

Thanks for the response. Changing the sockets made we want to quickly check everything with the SOK36 however I haven't touched anything near the fuse box - it's all how it was when I moved in.

Here's a pic of everything in that cupboard - https://imgur.com/a/ogtZKl1 ?

Should I call an electrician asap to install some RCDs?

Thanks again for the help.

SOK36, & loads of other similar range of plug-in polarity testers, have very limited functionality....  

Although sold and branded with all sorts of claims about what they can do with regard to proving how safe or dangerous any wiring or sockets are..

Reality is they cannot identify numerous faults, but can leave an unskilled user with the misconception that their DIY alteration will still offer the right protection.    :shakehead

The Electrical Safety Council published a "Best-Practice-Guide" on this very subject due to some of the potential hazards of relying upon plug-in socket testers.

https://www.electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk/media/1205/best-practice-guide-8-issue-2.pdf

Personally I think you have wasted you money on the SOK36, as a basic polarity tester can be bought for less than £15.00, and probably has about as much use as a SOK36.

If you have never had your wiring tested since moving in then I would suggest not only does the fuse box need replacing but all the physical circuit wiring needs testing as well..

Wiring reg's guidance does recommend test & inspect domestic electrical installations at least every 10 years and/or change of occupancy..

( When replacing a fuse box a full wiring check should be carried out anyway so as to be able to compile the electrical certificate.. )

Moving into a property and not testing the wiring is like using a second hand car, that's got no service record and no MOT..

It may work...  But you have no idea if the unseen safety critical bits are all in place and within specified tolerances for safe use..

Electrical wiring is not about making something work...

It is about making sure it will disconnect the power fast enough in the event of a fault, so that you don't seriously injure or kill anyone!

SOK36's cannot do any of that!!

I think you need to get 2 or 3 electricians to quote for upgrading the fuse box and full test of the installation...

AND notifying the Part-P building regs compliance as well.

Where about are you?  there may-be someone on here local enough to give a price?

:coffee