few questions

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patch that was a very good solution but you just wouldn't

:Applaud

just as recap NO accessory will be in zone ? regardless of ip if 240v?

 
Wasn't that Ruth Ellis last words :coat
Oh dear , bit sick there , Slippers :eek: hate to be pedantic but she was hanged.

No electric chair in Britain.

Wasn't it Specs who got a job in a US prison and disconnected the chair because he thought it was a deathtrap ? :D

 
Oh dear , bit sick there , Slippers :eek: hate to be pedantic but she was hanged.No electric chair in Britain.

Wasn't it Specs who got a job in a US prison and disconnected the chair because he thought it was a deathtrap ? :D
Think 'beats electrocution' was a reference to her being hanged not electrocuted ;)

 
you can note the test results of the ring and then note a departure for in-accessable connections(sockets)
Only departures which do not result is a less satisfactory situation than compliance with the Regulations can be utilised. Departures cannot be used to note something which is less safe than compliance with the Regulations.

They are to enable new innovations etc.

 
Not been on here for a while been very busy, hope every1 is ok.Got a couple of easy questions im unsure about,

half way through a mains change empty property

end to end on kitchen ring, L/L .45

N/N .16

normally i would try and find the fault and fix but every socket in the kitchen cannot be taken off as when tiled they have tiled the sockets in and there is no way of getting them off, is it my responsibility to fix this problem or should i just note on the cert?

There is also a boiler in the bathroom fed from a FCU, the fcu is roughly 1 m from edge of bath and under half a meter from sink, is it ok to leave as is or does it require to be ip rated?

thanks
I will do the second bit first...

From your description the FCU is outside of the zones! (as JUD says)

Double check

701.32.2

701.32.3

701.32.4

all page 165 if in any doubt!

what is the surround floor like?

does it appear to be excessively damp?

do you think they are washing the walls down with high pressure hoses?

are there signs of copious amounts of water running down the walls?

If NO to all of the above IMHO leave as it is!

[handbasin? don't forget down in a kitchen there is NO regulation saying how close an open socket outlet can be!

just good practice guidance of >300mm]

Don't get sucked into the cant have ANYTHING electrical in a bathroom paranoia exhibited by some sparks!

Now the first bit second!

I guess you have a bad connection somwhere... :eek: :_|

end to end on kitchen ring, L/L .45 N/N .16

assuming 2.5mm that make the live leg approx 60.7m long

and the neutral leg 21.6m long!

there is clearly an issue that needs resolving here!!!

what I would do is...

1) have you got a test socket which you can plug your meter leads directly in the top of?

If no make a plug or lead arrangement you can quickly take L-E and N-E readings from.

2) disconnect all six legs of the ring from the CU

3) Join one end of the ring all together.. L1+N1+E1.

4) go round all of the sockets and take a L-E then N-E continuity reading..

They should be approx the same as each other... unless you get to a dodgy loose screw terminal joint!

5) Do the same exercise form the other end of the cable.. then go round all of the sockets and take a L-E then N-E continuity reading..

{again they should be approx the same as each other... unless you get to a dodgy loose screw terminal joint! }

6) if the readings suddenly get out of step with each other then thats probably you bad joint!

:|

 
OR the point immediatly before that one on the circuit. ;)
Wouldn't he already have tested the one immediately before that one? :C

 
Yes but if the N LEAVING the one before is loose and giving the High Resistence problem then that will give the Highest reading at the NEXT point.

 
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